This may come as a surprise to many of you who have for years been reading about my many old cars (my youngest is 29 years old), but I want to buy a new car. Maybe not a brand new one, but one from the last decade. I’ll get into the reasoning behind why I no longer want to solely drive old junkers, but it really doesn’t matter because I’m stuck. Logical or not, I feel that if I buy the EV I want today, it may be obsolete in a few years, and if I buy an ICE today, it may be…obsolete in a few years. Here, allow me to explain.
Here are the two cars I’m debating purchasing:
- A 2023 Jeep Wrangler JL Sport 6spd (a vehicle I helped engineer)
- A 2015 BMW i3 (also an engineering masterpiece)
I’m considering purchasing one of these machines because the 405 here in LA is a monster that swallows small old cars, and my large-ish Jeep J10 is just too thirsty for the $5/gallon gas. Plus, I’m realizing that having a new-ish car can help socially. It’s really not about me having a commute and needing reliability, because my cars are actually quite reliable (especially the J10), it’s really more about me growing up a little bit.
To be honest, I really want to buy a BMW i3, because I want to practice what I preach, which is that people with commutes should drive EVs if they can, since the real joy of ICEs — the joy of driving (especially a stick shift) and listening to a nice exhaust note — is often lost during a boring commute, anyhow. Plus, as an engineer, I consider the BMW i3 to be a fascinating machine, with its carbon fiber body mounted to a frame, propelled by an EV powertrain with a battery that can be topped up by a motorcycle engine-derived motor that BMW calls a “range extender.” Here, you can learn more:
The problem is, a used i3 costs $15,000. This isn’t horrible, per se, but I’m not convinced that it won’t be worth less than $5,000 in five years — and that’s a lot more depreciation than I’d like to deal with. I say this because if, in five years, we can all get used Chevy Bolts that offer 250+ miles of range for $10 grand, then why would anyone pay anything near that for an i3 with only 75 miles of EV-only rage?
I realize I’m making a big assumption that we’ll be able to get high-ish-range EVs for cheap in five years, but it’s really not that big of a stretch. The Chevy Bolt only costs about $26,000, and after a $7,500 federal incentive, it can be purchased, in theory, for under $19,000. That’s dirt cheap, and the Bolt won’t be the only machine in the coming years to offer that kind of smoking hot deal.
Will the i3 be left in the dust? Will my $15,000 purchase seem foolish? It’s already starting to look foolish in the context of that Bolt deal I could get today (again, in theory).
That brings me to the Jeep Wrangler JL. ICEs aren’t going away for good anytime soon, and when I said “obsolete” in my first paragraph, I really didn’t mean technically obsolete. I just mean obsolete to those on the market for a new car. If I buy a JL today, especially here in California, will it depreciate like crazy in the next five years as more people have EV options, as EV infrastructure grows, as EV incentives ratchet up, and as fuel prices remain high (and possibly increase — again, who knows?).
Honestly, both of these purchases seem high risk if I care about depreciation. A Bolt less so, since it’s an EV and offers decent range.
It’s a tough time to buy a new car. At least, for me it is, though maybe I’m overthinking things. Maybe depreciation is just part of owning a new-ish car, though as someone who’s never bought a car that has depreciated, I’d like to own something that, at least from a basic technological standpoint, won’t be outdated in a few years. Maybe the problem is that the two cars I’m considering are already outdated.
Surely I’m not the only one facing this dilemma?
[Writer’s Note: I think the solution to EV hesitation is that if you can charge at home or at work and would like an EV, buy an EV that you like for other reasons than its powertrain. Think of it like buying a performance car: The AMGs, M cars and Corvettes of ten years ago can’t keep up with their modern equivalents in a straight line, but they’re generally more tactile, lighter, and simpler. The BMW i3 is outdated as an EV but it’s a cool feat of engineering with innovative construction, a lovely interior, and a funky form factor. The Ford Mustang Mach-E will likely be outdated in a generation but its inclination towards oversteer is fun and its buyer might love its styling. The Tesla Model 3 will eventually be outdated but it has a huge aftermarket community, good packaging, and the Supercharger network is an incredible feat of infrastructure. Every car eventually becomes outdated, but the great ones give us something to love once the new car smell wears off. -Thomas Hundal]
It does not seem like much of a comparison if these are the two options. The Jeep is the absolute best choice.
1.) You played a part in the design of the vehicle
2.) Wranglers historically retain their value better than most any other vehicle
3.) You are not restricted by range for trips outside of LA
I am sure their are more reasons but that’s what I could come up with on the fly.
David, the answer is i3s and not i3
“I’d like to own something that, at least from a basic technological standpoint, won’t be outdated in a few years”
I think an ICE vehicle will probably do better on this front. At this point, ICE vehicles are very mature products, meaning they have been vetted and improved and tweaked over the years so they are now in a state of evolution vs revolution.
Right now BEVs are still in revolution, and are likely to remain there for several years IMO. Ask any former leader of a small country how predictable a revolution is. 🙂
I like the idea of the i3 with the range extender: even if it is left behind technically, you can still get a lot of utility out of it.
“I can’t decide between a Jeep Wrangler and a BMW I3” is a statement that I feel confident I have never heard before.
Philosophically, there’s an old adage…
“perfect is the enemy of good“
Just like finding a mate, if you keep searching for the absolute perfect person, you’ll be lonely the rest of your life for nobody is perfect.
There is no perfect car that will meet all your needs. Car buying tends to be an emotional experience as you know. I’d recommend researching as you have, and then find the one that’s available in your life and go with it. Don’t look back!!!
Does your apartment have EV plugs? I like the i3 and a co-worker bought one. It’s a nice ride. If I were to buy one, I’d make sure it’s the range extender version and not the pure EV.
Don’t get the Jeep. You have enough already to 4wheel with as it is. Just build your overlander project.
It does.
There is something to be said about driving a car that you helped engineer, but keep in mind, cars don’t rust in California, so you’ll be disappointed 😛
Why aren’t you considering the Wrangler 4xe? It’s still a Jeep, but it’s also hybrid.
I think the i3 looks really cool! I’d totally rock one with the range extender and a sunroof 😀
The 4xe is EXPENSIVE, and also… it’s automatic.
If I’m gonna make a big compromise to on-road ride and fuel economy, I better at least have a stick and a reasonable price!
Does Galpin sell Jeeps? Beau can get you a deal 😀
A Jeep will never be obsolete, because the romance of adventure will always sell them.
That said, even in your worst case scenario of the i3 depreciation, you can probably save that $10k in gas over the time you own it at California pump prices. Don’t get caught up in the depreciation worry game. Money out is money out. It doesn’t matter if you spend it at the pump or “lose” it in depreciation.
Furthermore, who says you’re going to get rid of it in 5 years? I could see a guy like you banging around in an i3 with rebuilt batteries for a decades. I love those things by the way. The interior of those is a freaking masterpiece. It’s the only modern BMW that interests me in the least.
I say go for the i3, but even if you get the Jeep I think you’ll do fine with resale value. Which again is funny, because we all know you’ll never sell the damn thing.
The fuel cost can vary hugely for EVs (free to the equivalent of over $10/gallon gas), but in my case running an EV vs. Jeep, the EV is about 1/10 the fuel cost. If he can charge for ~10 cents/kWh off peak (or play the game we do and hit up free chargers whenever possible, or plug into an outlet at work), then the fuel cost could go from ~$3000/year to $300/year assuming 1000 miles/month and 20 mpg in the Jeep. Five years of cheaper fuel (and maintenance) could pretty much cover the $15k purchase price. Like you said, depreciation is not so much of an issue if the car can effectively pay for itself in running cost savings, although it certainly requires access to cheap electricity.
You can hear it whispering in the back of your mind…”David, you helped bring me into this world. You toiled at a desk and in meetings to make me what I am. You slaved over a computer to make me as perfect as you possibly could. You need me. You desire me. You must have me. I am the Jeep to be one with your soul. Buy me now…”
Get the JL.
I mean if you want something relatively depreciation proof you may way to consider a current car that’s a hot commodity and has a cult following amongst enthusiasts. A current Bronco would probably be a safer bet than a Jeep due to scarcity if you can find a deal that isn’t terrible…although it doesn’t address the efficiency concerns. A base 4 cylinder two door with a stick gets high teens MPG combined.
There are also things like the spicy Civic variants. An SI or Integra could be a good bet. I don’t think they will depreciate much as long as you avoid the CVT like the plague and they manage to get into the 30s fuel economy wise. Since they’re absolute darlings in the enthusiast community, come in manual, and will last 10+ years I think they’ll hold their value pretty well.
The issue with hybrids and EVs is, as you mention, they’re going to depreciate like lead balloons as technology improves and Honda/Toyota hybrids are pretty much unobtainable right now because of demand. You’d definitely have to put up with some reliability concerns (to be fair it’s not like that’s ever driven you away before) but I think the Volvo PHEV products are pretty desirable.
The S60 in particular. They’re a little pricier but once someone else has eaten the initial depreciation they’re not a bad buy. I think the S60 Recharge has a good combination of style, performance, etc. and you can commute on electric. I’m not sure if you’ll be able to find a reasonably affordable one, but they’re compelling nonetheless.
Other than that I’m drawing blanks. You could always try to track down a Honda CRZ. They’re disappointing performers but there are manuals out there and they make great city cars.
Dave, you really can’t go wrong either way. Being in California, you’re probably better off going with the EV. But either way, we’re decades away from doing away with ICE cars. As we transition though, that i3 may become a “classic” in regards to electric cars, and old cars are always cool.
I bought a rebuilt 2013 Focus ST with 37,000km. Drove it for two years, doubled it’s mileage, and sold it for the same I paid. You can get a modern, reliable car and not lose money on it. You’ve just got to be patient and open
i3 owner here. The Big Move for an i3 purchase (right now) is to find one you can get a new battery (under warranty) on… 2015’s with low Kappa Max value can be brought into the dealership before 8 years and get a whole new battery pack. Center BMW in Sherman Oaks just replaced my battery on my 2014 i3 REX making it a “new” car…
I love the i3, it’s an awesome go-cart that cosplays as a car.
Oh wow! What’s the max Kappa Max they’ll warranty?
18.8 is the starting point for an older (smaller battery)
13.2 is the magic number that triggers the 70% warranty claim.
I hear 110 charging can facilitate degradation (which I do b/c you don’t really need 220 I found (10 hr charges be dammed).
I never really worry about range, even in longer occasional use – because the REX is awesome.
You MUST get the euro flash which enables you to use the “backpack” motor to hold charge below 75%, instead is 5% which gives you little buffer before dreaded limp mode. Use it on the highways, save your juice when Aero is against you.
I often don’t get the concern over depreciation. It only matters if you plan to sell it soon. And it only matters if you don’t drive it (losing value while sitting still vs. using the value while driving). Or get in an accident. Yeah, you’ve flipped a lot of cars, but I’m assuming this would be different (just as your first XJ is different).
If you’re an advocate of “drive the damn car” then buy what you want and enjoy it!
Frankly, I’d go with rootwyrm’s advice and get a used 4xe. That should give you all the electric range you need for commuting and it’s still the Wrangler you deserve.
Not to mention… convertible in L.A. Duh… 🙂
David’s pasty complexion is not a good match for sunny California.
I tan quite easily!
My advice, get one of the ultimate commuters ever made: 1st Gen Honda Insight.
Why?
– Rare & Interesting, produced in the NSX factory, entire chassis is aluminum, whole thing weighs only 1800lbs
– Costs $3-5k
– CRAZY efficient, 52mpg with snow tires, 70-80mpg with LRR summers
– MANUAL TRANS so it’s actually fun to drive (not fast)
– The hybrid system is robust if you know how to keep the cells balanced, which is not hard to do if you have a grid charger, a piece of scrapwood, and a $3 light bulb fixture.
– Interior is awesome, S2000 style dash, S2000 steering wheel, deeply bolstered seats
– Not only will you save stupid money in gas, it will not depreciate, and will likely appreciate a bit?
– Engine and trans is stupid reliable. I’m at almost 300k on mine, burns no oil, runs great, everything works, even the AC
I think the biggest thing… is that the hybrid system with manual trans, is actually really, really interesting to drive. It’s very involved, and you need to pay attention, and it can turn a relatively mundane commute into something that keeps you focused on driving. You’ll be aware of hills and valleys, headwinds, and then you subconsciously start adjusting your driving style to maximize the inputs you have available; it’s a weird balance between speed, efficiency, hybrid battery regen/assist, gear selection, and .. idk… I like driving mine a lot.
Anyway, just throwing that out there. IMHO nothing else for commuting comes close from a financial standpoint, and if you can drive stick and enjoy driving interesting things, it’s an easy choice.
And the Honda Insights have a fatal design flaw with the IMA, which is extremely NLA. Once the IMA fails – which it will – it’s just a hacked up unreliable misery-mobile. Finding one without fried batteries is impossible, and those batteries? You got it – NLA. And none of the sellers I’ve ever found are even remotely reputable.
Worse, the overwhelming majority of owners have gone full pants-on-head at best. Only the finest “$0 fixes” like putting pennies in fuse sockets, don’t need ball joints if you have worm clamps, and can’t have a battery error if you pull the battery.
And even if you could find a properly maintained one without any major faults and enough spares to keep it on the road another decade, the idea that Insights won’t depreciate is laughable. They might stay at the same price as they are now. Best case.
Which means they’re still depreciating. Hello, macroeconomics and inflationary theory calling.
dude…. what are you even talking about? You are talking out of your asshole and just making things up, man.
The IMA system doesn’t really die, there are cars with crazy high miles, no problems. The problem is the battery… which… gets out of balance. That’s it boss. I still have the original 20 year old battery. Deep discharge once a year, and grid charge a few times a year, works fine. As for replacements not being available, it was right here when I knew you were 100% full of BS. Not only are there multiple companies making replacement batteries, there are companies now making drop in lithium ion packs for a lot more power than stock, and coupled with a resistor mod for 50% more electrical assist, you can basically build an Insight “Si”. Brakes are shared with civics, control arms are available, there’s literally no issue finding parts with these things, you are just saying random crap at this point man.
And yes, a running driving $3-5,000 insight will not depreciate, because their desirability is their efficiency. There isn’t really anything else on the road that can achieve these kind of MPG from an internal combustion engine; the only thing that has beaten it is that VW XL1, which isn’t in the same league as it’s a $200k toy with plastic windows. Commuters will always want a high MPG driver, and the insight is probably the ultimate commuter ever made in terms of saving money.
If you don’t need the range of the Bolt, then get the i3. It’s adorable, fun to drive (from what I’ve heard) and is indeed an engineering marvel. The Bolt is the cheapest new EV on the market, and I don’t just mean price-wise. Some friends of ours bought a new 2023 Bolt. Sure it has range, but it feels cheap, looks cheap and torque-steers like crazy. If you’re thinking about resale value, you shouldn’t be buying, IMHO. That’s why I leased my Polestar 2. I’m sure that within 3 years it will be mostly value-less on the used market, so I’ll let Polestar deal with that. I bought the similarly (to the i3) priced, sized and ranged Fiat 500e a year ago and I haven’t regretted it for a second. It’s adorable and fun to drive and gets comments everywhere I take it.
Get the i3. Do eeet; do eeet now…
I don’t grasp the logic of “EV infrastructure will get better, more people will buy EVs, therefore gas prices will increase”
Anyways, what makes you think you’d sell 5 years from now anyways? That doesn’t seem to jive with your usual strategy of “from my cold, dead hands”.
Anyways, buy the JL. There won’t ever be another vehicle that you’re attached to personally in the same way. Get the 4xe if environmental concerns will guilt you. But nothing in my lifetime has managed to change the sky-high residuals for Wranglers, and I doubt a few percentage points more of EV sales will do it either. Buy and enjoy.
Agree 100%.
Have had an i3 for almost 6yrs. First was a 2017 Rex with the 94Ah battery, then got a 2019
Rex with the 120Ah battery. Problem is those pre-2017MY have the 60Ah battery which isn’t going to provide much range. i3s batteries have maintained their “range” pretty well as BMW limits it to 80% usable capacity, so even when it degrades, you still have the same range over the long term.
Use to be a commuter car for the wife instead of going way over the mileage on the family SUV. Now its just an around town errand type of car. Between the two have used them over 50k miles and they have been great.
Problem for us was BMW pulled the i3 a year sooner than expected, couldn’t find a 2021 to replace the 2019 with during the pandemic, so we bought out the lease. Used i3s were so cheap until the pandemic, most 2-3 yr lease returns would go to auction and could be bought for 20k or less. They started going for mid 30s 2yrs ago, and have stayed there.
Are the hybrid Jeeps in your price range? That would fit both your criteria.
Outside of CA, they are giving massive discounts on the hybrid Jeeps.
I think David is kind of stuck on a base model 2-door JL with a stick. The 4XE models are all 4-doors and significantly more expensive
Which raises a bigger question.
Why aren’t you considering a lightly used JL 4xe then?
No. I’m serious. It’s time to talk turkey on Wrangler pricing. Which is to say it’s absolutely bonkers. Your hypothetical JL isn’t $32k. It never was. Every color except white is a $500 upcharge. The mirrors are a $200 upcharge. Being able to take the doors off is a $2350 upcharge. By the time you’re done with all that, your ‘base’ Wrangler is easily topping $50k after delivery, fees, and taxes.
The 4xe gives you a hybrid. Going lightly used gives you something far more valuable: a manufacturer’s warranty. And prices are not as bad as you think.
Option one, stretch your budget a little bit and get a leftover 2022 or very low mile demo unit (we’re talking less than 1,500 miles.) Average price? About $50k. And you get the full factory warranty.
Option two, manufacturer certified pre-owned. As in actual certified, not the dealer slapping a label on it. You’re still getting a very low mile (sub-20k typical) car, you get the remaining manufacturer warranty, you can generally take advantage of incentives, and of course you can also extend that warranty. And the average price on those? About $45k.
And of course, there’s option three.
David, it’s LA traffic, are you out of your goddamn mind with a Wrangler?! I get it. You worked on the design. That’s a big pull. Know what else is a big pull? Not choking on smog while getting sunburn in the world’s longest four-lane parking lot.
Enter the Grand Cherokee 4xe.
It’s a Jeep. It’s a hybrid. It’s fully enclosed. You can get heated and cooled seats – your butt will thank you. And the best part? Nobody wants them. You’ll find lots of listings asking $60k, $65k, $75k like it’s some sort of super high demand impossible to obtain car like a Civic Type R.
There’s 23 “used” ones for sale within 50 miles of me and aside from 2022 demos being replaced by ’23 demos, they’ve all been sitting on the lot. For ages. Some dealers are just straight up marking them down aggressively. Others, say the word negotiation and they’ll take $5k off the top.
Wrangler money, without having to suffer swamp ass. Look “professional” and “classy,” so long as they don’t notice what you’re towing with it.
If I’m buying a Jeep, it’s gonna have solid axles.
As for dropping $40k+ on a JL PHEV, that’s tough…I AM a cheap bastard.
A bastard so cheap that you can (assumingly) afford the type of enthusiast vehicle that you ever so frequently remind us you personally helped engineeer, and instead of buying an actual, new example of, you refuse so that you can “let someone else eat the depreciation”
I hope you like content about modding and fixing shitbox Rav4s, because that’s what people who want an appliance purcahse new with sensible financing (and who’s depriciation can be measured using only the odometer) will actually buy new, so that’s all that’s going to get built.
There’s no 2 door 4XE. The 2 door Wrangler has a pretty good turning circle, the same cannot be said for the 4 door.
Sure, it’s not solid axles, but neither are the other Grand Cherokees you already own. Or the SJ. Which we both know can offroad with the best of them.
But this is something to do commute and daily duty with the occasional bit of fun. Not a pure fun car. No car can ever be pure fun. Trenchfoot is not fun. Very expensive repair bills, definitely not fun.
And the fact is, you really can’t name a better support vehicle for your fleet. Go ahead. Try! Name another PHEV that can pull 6,000lbs to Moab without having to stop for any longer than to fill up the tank, handle many of the trails there itself, and then pull it all home, while also keeping you in comfort and luxury on the Worst Parking Lot Ever, and can carry an entire CJ-5 driveline including the axles as easily as it carries your groceries. (No, seriously. I have put Dana 44’s into a WK and it’s smaller.)
And really, that’s why I’m recommending it. Not because it’s a Jeep. Not because I’m biased (even though I am.) I think that a Wrangler is going to leave you unhappy in LA daily driving duties – especially a manual, the Wrangler 4xe is going to leave you with the same and cost regrets (“why did I pay so much to be so uncomfortable?!”,) and you’ll make it about three weeks with anything else before you start going “I should’ve bought a Jeep” or find out just how insane repair and insurance costs are. (i3’s are actually horrifically expensive to insure.)
The Grand Cherokee is the one I don’t believe you’ll regret three weeks on, three years on, or even a decade later. Particularly in daily duties and because nobody’s getting any younger. (Except for Keith Richards and Keanu Reeves. Google it.) It’s a car that enables the fun while also being able to engage in mild to moderate shenanigans itself. Something that is different from the rest of your fleet, but maintains much of the sameness you want.
Buying cars should now be a business expense, and therefore tax-free for you.
I’ve been considering the Grand Cherokee 4xe. I love that you can add ventilated seats to the base model, rather than locking them to a higher trim, but I don’t love the price. Sounds like I’m gonna need to watch the “used” listings. I know the advice is for David (and it is good for him, too), but thank you for the info!
It’s definitely worth a look if you’re under 6k towing and 1.2k lbs payload, especially as you point out, you don’t have to get the Summit to get ventilated seats. Though the price is bonkers. But all of them are.
Unfortunately for me, the 4xe’s are NOT an option. When they say 6k towing? Do not attempt to tow much more than 6k, full stop. Like, 6100 or less. Brakes matter more than engine for towing, and the 4xe’s have regen. My most critical load exceeds that capacity by more than 50%, which I expect would do immediate severe damage.
I could do just fine keeping to 5k towing, but I appreciate the warning. And it would allow me to get rid of my pickup AND my current PHEV.
It’s just so much money and doesn’t even have that much EV range. But a good deal would make up for that. I am eligible for supplier pricing, which might also help negotiations, so I really need to check it out.
Where are you.getting 2350 to take doors off? Do you mean for half doors, which really aren’t needed? Because our JT doors come off for free…
It may not be the most “bang for the buck” in the traditional sense, but if a person wants to keep costs low, buying lightly to moderately used is still the way to go. Sure, it might require a little more internet legwork or patience, but deals can be found. A couple years ago, I found my JKU in the color I wanted, with the drivetrain I wanted, for several thousand less than comparable examples, with only 84K on it. That might seem like a lot, but I was confident in my wrenching ability and the robustness of the components. It drives fine and has plenty of life left in it and I paid less than half of the original sticker/MSRP, essentially. For a Wrangler, that’s a win.
I haven’t bothered looking, but, just going off of historic Wrangler resale value, I can easily see a used 4xe costing more than a new one with the tax credit. They are not cheap vehicles.
Part of what you’re looking at is linked to Sunk Cost Fallacy with the trick that you’re doing it before spending a dime. You’re already trying to avoid depreciation and… you can’t. Its literally impossible. Entropy wins in the end, and your car will be less valuable the instant you drive it anywhere.
So get what you want, what makes sense to you. I’ve added 12,000 miles to my Miata since I took it off the lot in September. What does it look like when it is only one more year older? There is absolutely no case where I can avoid that level of depreciation and have something built within the past half decade. So I’ll drive the wheels off of it.
I applaud the self-reflection necessary to think “I should do some growing” and because of that I think you should steer clear of Jeeps.
At the same time, as a fellow engineer, if I worked on a vehicle I loved as much as you love Jeeps, I damn sure would have an example of it sitting in my driveway even if I didn’t drive it every day.
You could always buy a Nissan Leaf and throw a Kawasaki motorcycle engine in the back, like that one guy did.
“I applaud the self-reflection necessary to think “I should do some growing” and because of that I think you should steer clear of Jeeps.”
The gray-haired doctor three doors down from me dailies a Wrangler 4xe. Growing up doesn’t mean having to buy a Genesis G80 or a Toyota Camry.
Though I would approve of a G80 in LA traffic. As would your spine.
I fully agree, growing up doesn’t mean you don’t have to give up fun things, however there’s a slight, but incredibly important difference between “growing” and “growing up”
I don’t think David needs to grow up. He’s an adult doing adult things, and lthough I question many of his decisions I can see that they are mostly made for the clicks (at least… gods above and below, I hope that’s why he does some of it.)
But growing? Growing has very little to do with whether you’re an adult or not as it can be done at any level of development. Growing is about doing and experiencing new activities, finding new reasons to do what you do or reasons to do something completely different, as well as many many other things.
Growing up is pretty easy, I know very few people that haven’t done it. Growing in general is much more difficult
To be clear, I’ll still have lots of weird old cars, including my $350 overlanding ZJ “Holy Grail,” my 1985 Jeep J10, my 1979 Jeep Cherokee Golden Eagle, my 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ, and my Nash Metropolitan.
Everyone on this site knows that you’ll still have lots of old cars, no matter what you buy tomorrow.
People that walk past you in the street look at you and with a troubled expression turn away thinking “I bet that guy has lots of weird old cars.”
Absolutely. Depreciation will hit in either scenario. I don’t think either one of these cars could be “obsolete”-ish in the next few years, but he’s going to take a hit on value anyway.
I find it hard to believe it’s between a vehicle he helped engineer and literally anything else. Like you said, he loves Jeeps so much, how could he not possibly have one?
You can do what I did. I bought a 2001 Isuzu Vehicross new. I bought it the day I test drove it despite having never heard of it prior to that day. I wasn’t even car shopping or in the market. It is still my DD i took care of it I still like driving it and there arent too many newer cars I would trade even up for. And since it is now 22 years old I am close to driving a classic that I know has been well cared for. Buy what you love. Anything else you will grow to regret.
BMW i3s have been $15k since well before the pandemic, when you could get a high mileage Bolt for $10k-$12k. I don’t think their value will be extremely affected by cheap ‘long range’ EVs, because the i3 has always been somewhat of a contrarian choice, and that’s unlikely to change. They’ll continue to get cheaper as they get more decrepit, but, I think we’re a long, long way off from decent condition, fully operational i3s being $5k.
Also, BMW was kind enough to make the battery packs all fit in the same spot, so, if the battery ever does get weak, swapping in one from a later model (which could massively up the range) should be doable.
Had a lease REx years ago when they were stupid cheap, absolutely loved it. Would like to get another, but, their resale staying quite strong (and potential problems) has kept me from pulling the trigger.
15 grand for a car is cheap anyway, that’s what you would spend on a lease and you wouldn’t own a car in the end. Also consider the cost of gas over 5 years, that would be decent chunk of the depreciation of the EV. Buy the BMW.
I’m an idiot, but if I were going for a commuter, I’d get the Bolt. Otherwise, you’re buying something that sparks joy- an object of desire. Will the i3 or the Wrangler bring you substantially more joy than your other cars? That’s something for you to answer, but the hit you’ll take on either (possibly) is the cost of something that makes you happy, instead of a practical machine that walks-the-walk of what you think is responsible (and that has its own rewards of happiness).
Years ago, I was all set to get a Bolt as a commuter car. High mileage ones were getting really close to $10k, which seemed like an absolute steal. Then the pandemic happened, then the fire fiasco happened, and now they’re all quite a bit more expensive.
Volts seem to be a pretty good compromise though. Especially in David’s case, Chevy reportedly sold a whole heap of 2nd gens in California, so it should be pretty easy to find one at a good price. Not nearly as cool as an i3, but, probably a better ‘car’.
I once bought a Honda Accord as a practical winter beater. I realized then that I will never drive a car I don’t love. Life is too short.
Do you love the i3 though, or just find it technically interesting? Because that novelty wears off quickly, and the car is obviously compromised in a lot of ways.
It’s possible I won’t! And then I’ll have to part ways with it.
I wonder if you could find one on Turo.com or one of those other AirBnB-for-Cars type websites and drive it for two weeks straight.
Might be a good way to figure out if you do love it or not.
I’d highly recommend finding your answer to that before buying (or really, even before limiting your pool of candidates to two vehicles)