Meteorological summer is here, which means it’s car season across all fifty states and Canada. The fun cars are out, the meets are meeting, the shows are showing, the trackdays are tracking, and all is well. Well, most is well. Maintenance is a continuous process, and while I hope that most of our rides are functional, there’s a chance some of them might not be optimal.
Admittedly, I have stuff I’m putting off. I still need to book the 325i into an exhaust shop (was going to DIY but air chisel access is, uhh, not good), but I’m hoping I can coordinate that with a press car loan so I can hit two birds with one stone and line up a way home. As for the Boxster, I need to order the hinge repair kit for the center console oddments box, for it’s been bodged for years. Still, minor stuff in the grand scheme of things, and that means I have time to help.
Maybe your depreciated German McBling shitbox is making an odd vibration, or your Japanese beer can requires an obscure part, or your older American iron needs its headliner redone. Share what’s ailing your vehicles, for an extra brain can offer a different perspective.
So bring out your BMW hex codes, your Mercedes problems, your strange symptoms, and your NLA part numbers. I’m not a mechanic, but with a lifetime around the automotive industry and a healthy few years working backend, I’ll do my best to help in the comments below.
(Photo credits: Thomas Hundal)
I have finally experienced the sad part of Saab ownership: NLA parts. My 9-5 has an intermittent airbag light that’s caused by the passenger side front impact sensor, and boy does that sensor not seem to exist for purchase anymore.
What’s your plan? Seems like you can look for used ones, try to find another manufacturer with a similar part or delete the system altogether. If I’m not mistaken, GM owned Saab when the 9-5 was around, didn’t they? Might share a part # with a Chevy somewhere out there if you’re lucky.
I have finally experienced the sad part of Saab ownership: NLA parts. My 9-5 has an intermittent airbag light that’s caused by the passenger side front impact sensor, and boy does that sensor not seem to exist for purchase anymore.
What’s your plan? Seems like you can look for used ones, try to find another manufacturer with a similar part or delete the system altogether. If I’m not mistaken, GM owned Saab when the 9-5 was around, didn’t they? Might share a part # with a Chevy somewhere out there if you’re lucky.
In this order, kind of; although the one in bold can be done at any time in the sequence, it probably should come first:
Otherwise, I’m good.
Sounds like one heck of an automotive resurrection! Thankfully, window regulators on these cars are pretty easy, even if you may have to carefully drill out some rivets. Fingers crossed it all works out.
In this order, kind of; although the one in bold can be done at any time in the sequence, it probably should come first:
Otherwise, I’m good.
Sounds like one heck of an automotive resurrection! Thankfully, window regulators on these cars are pretty easy, even if you may have to carefully drill out some rivets. Fingers crossed it all works out.
My E12’s heater valve. I finally got it out! It’s a shitty job – either modify a 9mm wrench to remove two nuts completely blind 30 degrees at a time, or tear a bunch of s**t out. I went with the tear s**t out approach and removed the center console, then the glovebox, then the AC unit and i was going to remove the heater/blower assembly when I thought that i may be able to get to those two hidden nuts from the passenger side without it. I got to one from there and ended up having to drop the steering column to get the last one, but I finally got that f***er out today. Replace it, clean up the AC unit, I might take it apart to clean out evaporator, get new foam to seal against the ductwork, then figure out a fix for the broken plastic joints on both heat and air-direction controls. Re-wire mess of radio wiring to replace ugly modern CD deck with vintage Blaupunkt, unf*** the weird shift boot, reinstall console, praise Jesus. Refill and bleed cooling system and I can finally drive it again. Everything after that (replace PS fluid and filter, replace weeping PS hose, new brake fluid, adjust front wheel bearings, replace tie rod) is cake.
My E12’s heater valve. I finally got it out! It’s a shitty job – either modify a 9mm wrench to remove two nuts completely blind 30 degrees at a time, or tear a bunch of s**t out. I went with the tear s**t out approach and removed the center console, then the glovebox, then the AC unit and i was going to remove the heater/blower assembly when I thought that i may be able to get to those two hidden nuts from the passenger side without it. I got to one from there and ended up having to drop the steering column to get the last one, but I finally got that f***er out today. Replace it, clean up the AC unit, I might take it apart to clean out evaporator, get new foam to seal against the ductwork, then figure out a fix for the broken plastic joints on both heat and air-direction controls. Re-wire mess of radio wiring to replace ugly modern CD deck with vintage Blaupunkt, unf*** the weird shift boot, reinstall console, praise Jesus. Refill and bleed cooling system and I can finally drive it again. Everything after that (replace PS fluid and filter, replace weeping PS hose, new brake fluid, adjust front wheel bearings, replace tie rod) is cake.
It’s been a month since my Datsun 280Z has restarted after a bare shell restoration and the list of issue is satisfyingly short:
– small coolant leak from a hose
– no speedo. The pinion needs to be swapped I think (part is available)
– the 5th gear disengages during engine braking. It’s probably a small issue with the gear selector
I’m a little slow to fix all this as I just was to enjoy the car and none of those are deal breakers. Also, 2/3 of the issues require messing with fluids and I just don’t feel like it at the moment !
It’s been a month since my Datsun 280Z has restarted after a bare shell restoration and the list of issue is satisfyingly short:
– small coolant leak from a hose
– no speedo. The pinion needs to be swapped I think (part is available)
– the 5th gear disengages during engine braking. It’s probably a small issue with the gear selector
I’m a little slow to fix all this as I just was to enjoy the car and none of those are deal breakers. Also, 2/3 of the issues require messing with fluids and I just don’t feel like it at the moment !
My BMW is still suffering from a shitty startup. I think my chain has stretched as there are no more electrical bits to replace.
My BMW is still suffering from a shitty startup. I think my chain has stretched as there are no more electrical bits to replace.
My 2012 Prius v is pretty much ailment-free. Just the vague fear of future ails, but I guess that applies to most of us.
Those Prius vs just seem to work flawlessly forever. Every local WorldPac rep drives one, and I’ve never heard any complaints about downtime. Wonderful daily drivers from a practicality and cost-to-own perspective.
Ha! Not from what I read on r/Prius and PriusChat after buying it…apparently lots of concerns of blown headgasket, brake accumulator, and/or engine water pump by the 200,000 mile mark. Hence, “fear” rather than “current issue”. And of course, the hybrid battery is 12 years old at this point.
A lot fewer people are going to talk about their perfectly reliable ones, I acknowledge. So it’s all murky. But I’ve only had exactly one unexpected problem in 35,000 miles and it was covered by a TSB so this is light-years ahead of my old van.
I am glad to hear about your local WorldPac reps, though. It is truly a wonderful compromise of fuel economy and space-efficiency.
My 2012 Prius v is pretty much ailment-free. Just the vague fear of future ails, but I guess that applies to most of us.
Those Prius vs just seem to work flawlessly forever. Every local WorldPac rep drives one, and I’ve never heard any complaints about downtime. Wonderful daily drivers from a practicality and cost-to-own perspective.
Ha! Not from what I read on r/Prius and PriusChat after buying it…apparently lots of concerns of blown headgasket, brake accumulator, and/or engine water pump by the 200,000 mile mark. Hence, “fear” rather than “current issue”. And of course, the hybrid battery is 12 years old at this point.
A lot fewer people are going to talk about their perfectly reliable ones, I acknowledge. So it’s all murky. But I’ve only had exactly one unexpected problem in 35,000 miles and it was covered by a TSB so this is light-years ahead of my old van.
I am glad to hear about your local WorldPac reps, though. It is truly a wonderful compromise of fuel economy and space-efficiency.
Let’s see here, in no particular order:
My 2000 STI:
Mrs. GK’s 2005 Legacy Beater:
Mrs. GK’s 2022 Explorer:
My project 2003 Mustang GT “racecar”:
Let’s see here, in no particular order:
My 2000 STI:
Mrs. GK’s 2005 Legacy Beater:
Mrs. GK’s 2022 Explorer:
My project 2003 Mustang GT “racecar”:
The entire dashboard of my Travelall is sitting on the front seat, waiting to be reinstalled. I just swapped in a used, tested harness for the old one, where the PO had cut the fuse block out, and I have to finish cleaning up the firewall before I put it back in. 3/4 of the sound deadening material is on place, I just need the time to finish it.
The entire dashboard of my Travelall is sitting on the front seat, waiting to be reinstalled. I just swapped in a used, tested harness for the old one, where the PO had cut the fuse block out, and I have to finish cleaning up the firewall before I put it back in. 3/4 of the sound deadening material is on place, I just need the time to finish it.
I need to rebuild the front end on my wife’s Yukon, to get it to pass Maryland’s safety inspection. I knew it was getting sloppy, and it was already on my list of projects, but the state is forcing my hand. I ordered a remanufactured steering box for it (old one leaks like a sieve, and has an inch of play in the wheel), along with inner and outer tie rods, pitman arm, and idler arm. That ought to tighten it up.
Only trouble is that the tools I need to do all that work are in our second moving Pod, which isn’t scheduled to arrive for two more days…
I need to rebuild the front end on my wife’s Yukon, to get it to pass Maryland’s safety inspection. I knew it was getting sloppy, and it was already on my list of projects, but the state is forcing my hand. I ordered a remanufactured steering box for it (old one leaks like a sieve, and has an inch of play in the wheel), along with inner and outer tie rods, pitman arm, and idler arm. That ought to tighten it up.
Only trouble is that the tools I need to do all that work are in our second moving Pod, which isn’t scheduled to arrive for two more days…
Still getting my Webers dialed in on my VW squareback ,just got a new set of jets today to get the idle circuit leaner.35$ for four jets from Pegasus Racing ,hopefully this will be the last set I need.
Still getting my Webers dialed in on my VW squareback ,just got a new set of jets today to get the idle circuit leaner.35$ for four jets from Pegasus Racing ,hopefully this will be the last set I need.
I need to finish repairing the shift linkage on my 993 – just the front tube bushing needs to be replaced at this point. Fortunately, it’s easily accessible (unlike the others…ugh) and apparently just screws right on. And I shelled out for the Porsche part, as I’d rather not have to do this again any time soon.
I can’t wait to be able to drive her again, as per yesterday’s piece, she’s a convertible.
I need to finish repairing the shift linkage on my 993 – just the front tube bushing needs to be replaced at this point. Fortunately, it’s easily accessible (unlike the others…ugh) and apparently just screws right on. And I shelled out for the Porsche part, as I’d rather not have to do this again any time soon.
I can’t wait to be able to drive her again, as per yesterday’s piece, she’s a convertible.
Still chasing the cause of my lean engine code on the 986. Getting closer, but I’m pretty sure it’s a vacuum leak. I suspect the vacuum storage cannister, but only testing will confirm. Next step: propane torch testing and/or solvent testing. Basically, you hold an open (but not lit) propane torch near my intake tract until it makes the engine rev up a little as it goes from rich to lean (the propane acts as fuel when ingested by the car). This will be my first time using this method, so we’ll see what happens.
Fingers crossed it goes well! Worst-case, you can always DIY a smoke tester.
Still chasing the cause of my lean engine code on the 986. Getting closer, but I’m pretty sure it’s a vacuum leak. I suspect the vacuum storage cannister, but only testing will confirm. Next step: propane torch testing and/or solvent testing. Basically, you hold an open (but not lit) propane torch near my intake tract until it makes the engine rev up a little as it goes from rich to lean (the propane acts as fuel when ingested by the car). This will be my first time using this method, so we’ll see what happens.
Fingers crossed it goes well! Worst-case, you can always DIY a smoke tester.
I just finished up lifting my project Explorer, but the AC condenser is plugged, so no A/C in the summer heat, and the valve covers and rear main seal are leaking pretty badly.
My 20 year old Lexus has finally sprung a leak in the factory rear air bags, so I need to either replace them or bite the bullet and convert them to rear springs (I love the adjustable rear height for hooking up my trailer).
The fins themselves, or an internal clog in the condenser?
Internal clog, unfortunately. The system has obviously been cracked open before and likely wasn’t vacuumed down before freon was re-added, so I’m guessing I will find a ton of junk inside when I pull the system apart. I have a new condenser, compressor, evaporator, and orifice tube ready to go in after I have what freon is left recovered.