Buying your first car. It’s a rite of passage, a pivotal moment in the life of every car enthusiast. I remember when I was in school, getting my first car was more important than graduating or losing my virginity. Getting your first car felt like the biggest day in life at the time, especially with the huge pressure to do it right. We’ve recently been contacted by a reader named Mike whose son is about to turn 16, and he’s looking for some guidance in today’s crazy used car market.
Hello David, Jason and the rest of the gang. Longtime reader from early lightning site days. I need to save up some moolah to become a member but right now we are saving to help our son buy his first car in this crazy inflated market. My article idea is this: What fun car would you recommend for a car-obsessed soon to be sixteen year old boy? He’s been working and saving up his money for years, has sold off his drumset, bikes and other items and is almost ready to buy a car. Honestly, his passion for cars has kept him out of trouble with drugs and girls. So we fully support his passion. He wants to study engineering and get into the auto industry somehow.
The good news is that Mike’s son has a budget of $12,000, and he has great criteria. A manual gearbox is mandatory, as is a certain fizz factor once described by a floppy-haired Top Gear host. What’s more, Mike’s son wants something that’s cool, and something that can be autocrossed. Hell yeah.
As for keeping parents happy, a car needs to tick some more sensible boxes. First, it needs to be safe. I’d recommend at least side airbags and stability control, just in case. Second, it has to be reasonable to insure. This means that Hondas are out completely, as is anything with enough straight-line performance to get into modern trouble. Sorry Pontiac GTO and Ford Mustang GT, now’s not your time. Third, it needs to work most of the time. Otherwise it’s an NFT, or non-functional transportation.
Well Mike, you’ve reached out to the right people. I love dodging cones just as much as the next helmeted enthusiast, and your criteria basically matches what I search for in cars that I’d want to own. So, without further ado, here are six great enthusiast picks under $12,000.
Mazda MX-5 NC
Model Years: 2006 to 2015
Engine: Two-liter inline-four
Gearbox: Five- or six-speed manual
Power: 170 horsepower
Torque: 140 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 2,441 to 2,498 pounds.
Fuel Economy: 24 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Not Rated
SCCA Autocross Class: C Street
Sure, the NC MX-5 isn’t the coolest Miata on the market, but it’s not the barge the internet makes it out to be. Quicker, safer, more capable, and more modern than the NA and NB roadsters, the NC represents a value sweet spot where you can get a very capable, very reliable little sports car for not a lot of scratch. Not only does it suffer from fewer old car issues than its father and grandfather, it’s also full of mod-cons like side airbags and available xenon headlamps. If you’re looking for something really sharp, you might be let down by the NC. While this drop-top is objectively a good performer, the stock suspension allows for plenty of roll and dive. Splashing a bit of cash on some upgraded anti-roll bars(like Eibach units) helps dial in the feel, but it’s worth paying attention to how that affects SCCA classing should the autocross bug bite hard.
As far as common issues go, the plastic coolant reservoirs are now old enough to shit their dacks, but the same goes for just about any car on this list. Plastic getting brittle as it ages is about as new information as the fact that the earth revolves around the sun. In terms of spec, I’d definitely recommend investing in a proper roll bar like a Hard Dog unit and searching for a model with the close-ratio six-speed manual gearbox and the limited-slip differential, as both are fun options to have. The NC MX-5 may not offer the best thrills under $12,000, but it’s a safe bet with low running costs and is pleasing in a slow-car-fast way if you can get around the body motions.
Subaru BRZ
Model Years: 2013 to 2020
Engine: Two-liter flat-four
Gearbox: Six-speed manual
Power: 200 HP
Torque: 151 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 2,762 to 2,776 pounds.
Fuel Economy: 24 MPG combined.
IIHS Safety Rating: Top Safety Pick
SCCA Autocross Class: D Street
The NC MX-5 is a great starter enthusiast car, but what if you want more? Say, more space, more power, more revs, that sort of stuff. Well, the famous Toyota/Subaru twins are more than a decade old and bargains considering what you get. Whether you call it a Scion FR-S or a Subaru BRZ, these coupes give you all the spice a sports car should while still being perfectly livable as everyday cars. They seat two passengers comfortably and two more if you chop their legs off, and you won’t struggle to get anything larger than a backpack in the trunk.
Dare I say, these twins offer up even more fun than an NC MX-5. Sure, open-topped motoring has its own appeal, but I reckon that stock-for-stock, the two-liter boxer engine has so much more character than the Mazda’s inline-four, and the chassis feels more buttoned-down. I’d argue the steering is sharper, too. We’re talking about a more serious driver’s car than an NC Miata, something that’s more rewarding to push through the cones at an autocross. Sure, cabin noise, vibration and harshness may feel like being in the pit at a Knocked Loose concert, but that just means the car’s nice and light. As a bonus, these cars are incredibly competitive at autocross, and a great platform to grow with. I’d recommend the Subaru version over the Scion, for one reason: Early models were affected by a valve spring recall, and Toyota dealerships unfamiliar with re-sealing Subaru engines may have used excessive RTV that could clog the oil pickup screen. Oh, and both cars have fragile original throw-out bearings, so keep that in mind. Otherwise, these cars are smiles all down. Move over Miata, there’s a new boss in town.
Chevrolet Cobalt SS Turbocharged
Model Years: 2008 to 2010
Engine: Two-liter turbocharged inline-four
Gearbox: Five-speed manual
Power: 260 horsepower
Torque: 260 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 2,935 pounds
Fuel Economy: 25 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Good front offset, acceptable side-impact.
SCCA Autocross Class: D Street
Everyone loves an underdog story. Rocky, the Miracle on Ice, Olivier Panis at Monaco in 1996. The turbocharged Cobalt SS is another one of the all-time greats. Here’s a brief list of cars it’s faster around the Nordschleife than: Mitsubishi Evo VII, Lotus Exige S, 987 Porsche Cayman S, Cosworth Type 25 Subaru Impreza STI spec C, Audi S5. Sure, it might not have a particularly great shifter and its interior feels decidedly low-rent, but this humble Cobalt is sport compact car royalty. So how did Chevrolet get one of the cheapest, nastiest economy cars in recent history to slay such automotive greats?
Long story short, Chevrolet employed great suspension tuning, buckets of turbocharged thrust, and some clever performance functions. The two-liter turbocharged motor puts out 260 rampaging horsepower, and when fed through a five-speed transaxle with an optional limited-slip diff and aided by launch control and no-lift shift, it catapults this plastic-fantastic penalty box to 60 mph in five and a half seconds. Then there’s the stiffer springs, firmer dampers, larger rear anti-roll bar, four-piston Brembo front calipers, and 10 percent quicker steering ratio. It all adds up to one hell of a performance bargain. These 2008 and up turbocharged models are hard to find, but if you can find one that hasn’t been beat to death, you’ll end up with a surprisingly spicy sport compact capable of slaying giants. Don’t forget, it’s a Cobalt so it’s still a shitbox, but it’s a fast and nimble shitbox with dirt-cheap parts.
Volvo C30 T5
Model Years: 2008 to 2013
Engine: 2.5-liter turbocharged inline-five
Gearbox: Six-speed manual
Power: 227 horsepower
Torque: 236 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 2,970 pounds
Fuel Economy: 23 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Top Safety Pick
SCCA Autocross Class: H Street
The Volkswagen GTI is a nice enthusiast car. They’re handsome, quite fun if you’re talking about the MkV, and have massive aftermarket support. However, they are fairly maintenance-intensive. Allow me to present the alternative to German techno – a bit of Swedish metal. The Volvo C30 is a car almost everyone forgets about yet almost anyone likes. At the front, pre-facelift models look almost exactly like practical S40 sedans or V50 wagons. However, things are a different story around back. By drawing inspiration from the 1800ES shooting brake, Volvo created one of the most well-styled rear ends of any modern car. It’s all strawberry syrup taillights, cool glass, and flared hips. It’s a similar story on the inside with a waterfall of brushed metal taking center stage on the dashboard. Lovely.
What’s more, the C30 comes from Volvo’s Ford era, which means it’s based heavily on the second-generation Focus that America never got. This means you get a very composed front-drive chassis, well-weighted steering, and a ride that’s taut without ever being jarring. Plus, C30 T5 models came with the same turbocharged five-cylinder engine you’d find in a Focus ST. Figure horsepower in the low 200s, a torque band as wide and flat as Kansas, and a six-speed manual gearbox. Hot hatch guts with a bodyshell designed by people pathologically obsessed with safety is a brilliant combination. This little Volvo may not quite be as engaging as a GTI, but it’s still a very capable pick. Oh, and since Volvo is a premium brand, many C30s were fabulously-equipped. You could get a thumping ten-speaker Dynaudio sound system, push-to-start, xenon headlights, heated power seats, parking sensors, leather seats, and rain-sensing wipers in these practical hatchbacks. That’s a lot of kit.
Infiniti G35
Model Years: 2003 to 2007 for the coupe, 2003 to 2006 for the sedan
Engine: 3.5-liter V6
Gearbox: Six-speed manual
Power: 260 to 298 horsepower
Torque: 258 to 270 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 3,351 to 3,524 pounds
Fuel Economy: 20 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Good front overlap, acceptable side-impact
SCCA Autocross Class: D Street
It’s easy to forget how big of a deal the Infiniti G35 was when it came out. Not only was it a Nissan Skyline for America, it offered huge bang-for-the-buck. For the same price as a decently-equipped 184-horsepower E46 BMW 325i, you could have a 260-horsepower Infiniti sedan. The coupes got a bump to 280 horsepower, and available on the options list for both cars was an awesome six-speed manual gearbox with a rifle-bolt shifter linkage. What’s more, the pedal box is set up perfectly for heel-toeing and the steering is confidently-weighted. It all adds up to a car that’s great fun to grab by the scruff of its neck.
As far as issues go, there’s not much to worry about on these cars. The VQ35DE 3.5-liter V6 engines are known for oil consumption, so it’s best to check the dipstick at every other fill-up. Front suspension bushings are quick to wear and the combination radio and climate controls are known for going out every so often, but these are otherwise very reliable cars. Additionally, they all came with stability control, a full complement of airbags, and a reasonably modern crash structure. Mind you, they aren’t hugely refined. Lots of NVH makes it up through the floor on the highway, and some of the interior materials are a bit substandard. The glued-on pleather might flop off of the door trims, for example. Still, if you want a sports sedan and don’t want to pay the IS300 tax, a manual G35 is a good bet.
BMW 128i
Model Years: 2008 to 2013
Engine: Three-liter inline-six
Gearbox: Six-speed manual
Power: 230 HP
Torque: 200 lb.-ft.
Curb Weight: 3,252 pounds
Fuel Economy: 21 MPG combined
IIHS Safety Rating: Not Rated
SCCA Autocross Class: D Street
I’m breaking the rules here, Mike. I know you said no money pits that are a nightmare to fix and explicitly cited BMW in your email, but the N52-powered 128i is the exception to the rule. Trouble spots? Well, the electric water pump likes to go out at between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, but replace it with a Continental unit for a few hundred bucks and you’re more or less set for life. Otherwise, the VANOS solenoids enjoy periodic cleaning, there’s a coolant flange at the top of the engine that’s best to replace with aluminum for $20 or so, and models built between Sept. 2009 and Nov. 2011 should have the VANOS bolt recall done, but that’s really it. No VANOS rebuilds or subframe mount tearing or any of the annoying E46 stuff. This is a BMW that really just works. Just fix the odd valve cover gasket or oil filter housing gasket leak as it crops up, keep gas in it, change the fluids on time, and go. No different than a regular car, really.
Oh, and go it will. Out of all the cars on the list, this is the one most proven to make it to 300,000 miles, most of which will be very pleasurable. The hydraulic power steering is immaculately-tuned, the chassis just the perfect balance of firm yet comfortable, the seats genuinely all-day comfortable, and the three-liter straight-six engine so impeccably smooth even surging towards 7,000 RPM. Highway slogs are a doddle thanks to extensive NVH attenuation and cruising economy in the 30s, and this thing can still tear up an autocross course like the best of them. It’s not as nimble or as raw as a BRZ, but that’s a good thing for the realities of the road. Plus, it’s still a rich communicator that makes driving slow fun, and it’s incredibly well-equipped. As far as all-rounders go, the 128i is one of the best.
So there we are, six very different but very good picks for a first enthusiast car under $12,000. As for me, I owned a G35 before ending up with the 128i’s slightly bigger brother, the E90 3-Series. Mind you, I’d be pretty happy with nearly all of the cars on this list. They’re all reasonably swift, upgradable, cool enthusiast vehicles that should put a smile on any first car owner’s face, all while keeping parents happy. What reasonably modern, reasonably reliable enthusiast car would you recommend for a 16-year-old on a $12,000 budget? I’d love to know what’s on your radar.
(Photo credits: Mazda, Subaru, Chevrolet, Volvo, Infiniti, BMW)
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Great new column idea i miss yhis from the old days. I miss Tom Mcpharland as he doesnt seem to write this there anymore. However a few things.
1. Where does this guy live? I love a Miata but not in Detroit in the winter.
2. Is the $12k for just the car or are taxes, fees, license, and insurance a factor?
3. The Volvo looks best but I think a hot hatch is the answer here. Which one? Just about any manual one. Let him learn a small car doesnt need to be fast to be fun, at least until he learns to drive it. A college buddy killed himself in an expensive Vette his rich parents bought for his first car.
4. Insurance has no limit? Put a 16 year old male in a pocket rocket can he get insurance? If so can he afford it? Can dad afford it? I have seen idiots with premiums more than my mortgage.
5. So love the column just a few suggestions.
All of these are too much car for a 16 year old. Hell I got myself into serious buffoonery as a teenager with a damn 90s Ford Explorer. No car is safe in the hands of a teenager and I think pretty much every example here is more than you should hand a kid. Especially any Nissan product…
The answer is simple. Get the kid a Honda Fit. They’re bulletproof, they come in stick, front wheel drive won’t allow for sideways nonsense and can handle bad weather, etc. They’re also cheap and apparently very pleasant to drive for what they are. Let the kid learn the ropes on that and they can upgrade to a Toyobaru, Miata, GTI, etc. when they’re a little older.
They suck in the snow with the wrong tires. With the weight over the nose and the rear tires back as far as they are there’s nothing keeping the rears planted except whatever grip the tires offer. My better half had a 2009 until it got totaled in 2016.
Sounds like any pickup truck….
Another vote for the Volvo here.
Besides the cost of purchase of an ethusiasts car, what is the insurance cost for a 16 year old + an ethusiasts car with a comfortable (for parental piece of mind) level of coverage run annually? At my neck of the woods, the price of insurance cost for males come down at 25. I suggest research insurance cost, do a comparison, also compare against generic eco boxes. Unfortunately these days, insurance is part of adulting.
I hate to say it, but the killjoys who say “no enthusiast cars” are right. A 16 year old, even a well-behaved 16 year old who understands and values his car, is going to make mistakes. Make sure those are low-speed, easy-to-fix mistakes.
But of the cars presented here, I’d choose the Miata. Fun to drive but not overpowered, cool but not trying too hard, and (as a 2-seater) not going to give him a chance to put lots of passengers in danger. (Seriously, teen drivers with lots of young passengers are more at risk for accidents than when they’re driving alone, probably because of peer pressure.)
I fit myself and 3 others in a 1986 MR2.
We crammed 6 people into a Triumph GT6+ back in the mid 80’s.
I don’t think there’s anything killjoy about having a shitbox you can ramrod down Detroit alleyways smashing through discarded TVs and rotting trash, driving out to secluded wooded areas with the GF, parking on snowbanks at such an angle that I’d have to use the rear hatch to get out, crashing into snowbanks practicing advanced driving techniques in the snow without damage or damage that mattered, and some things I won’t write down, all while spending almost nothing on fuel and maintenance so I could go out to eat and do other things with people multiple times a week. That’s not mentioning the more specific benefits of making it a comic pseudo race car with a PA system that made animal noises. Or there’s also the memories of my friend and his Delta 88 coupe sliding on ice into a traffic island planter made of railroad ties and smashing the railroad ties with no damage to the rusty Olds and many other memories. And I was a relatively responsible teenager—I never drank or did drugs, did OK in school in spite of ADD and not caring, was never arrested, had a job, helped my mother, whatever. No, what can be a killjoy is having a car you care too much about to do those dumb things.
Genesis Coupe
I will shout it from the rooftops!
Had 1 for 6 years (manual 3.8), I loved it. Did pretty much everything except built motor and turbo.
Super fun around the Dragon and Homestead Speedway.
Don’t buy a hot car for a 16 year old – think about all the stupid sh*t you did when you first got your license. Buy something sensible yet fun (Mazda 3 or Honda Civic) with a manual and spend some of the rest on a good driver’s school (like Dirtfish).
The Mazda is the right answer. I bought my oldest son a 8 year old Mazda 3 with a manual and it’s about to go to my youngest son. That’s right all three of my sons drive a manual and they all took their driving test in one. I know I’m a hero, you don’t have to comment. These things are fun to drive, quick but not really fast, and dead reliable. We have only replaced the drive belt and coolant hoses, and that as a precaution. Any other answer is wrong. Well, except of course a Miata.
Something a lot of you are missing is that the kid saved this money for himself; the parents aren’t buying the car for him.
Now, when my kids are 16, I’m going to reserve some input into what they drive. But the mere fact of a teenager saving $12,000 to buy a car for himself shows a level of maturity that perhaps many of his peers don’t share.
My comment is already on record of preferring something FWD, which is probably lower powered anyways. But if the kid wants something more exciting and is willing to spend his own money on it, that would mean something to me as his dad.
He should get a cheap beater and save the rest or go on a trip somewhere when he turns 18. I don’t know if they’re factoring in insurance, either, but my nephew was paying over $5k when he first got his license just a few years ago for an old MB in an uppity area.
I don’t think he needs to spend the whole $12k necessarily, but I think the comments about a beater are misguided. The kid has saved a long time, and per the description he has sold other valuable possessions to earn this money. I don’t think he’s going to be satisfied with a $3K POS, nor would I be in his shoes.
If a decade from now, my son has saved 5 figures of his own money toward something he is passionate about, my response isn’t going to be “no, buy something shitty instead so you can suffer and build character”. If he trashes his $12k car, that will be a lesson for him.
I’m skeptical that he actually earned that $12k. He’s only 15 about to turn 16. Even working part-time minor hours at a fast food chain for a year isn’t going to get you in spitting distance of $12k. His money was probably gifted to him, OR he’s combining funds with his dad.
Manual Civic or Corolla. Learn to crawl first. Then buy something more capable after college.
First car, get a cheap—though not complete junk—shitbox with decent mpg that can take a beating and be fixed with a hammer and three different sockets and nobody will GAF when it gets some body damage from learning. Maybe something you can turn into an art car or funny car (as in amusing—girls love a confident sense of humor . . . or at least they did, not sure now that I’m old). Don’t know what that car is nowadays, but getting something worth keeping in good shape is kind of stupid or limiting when it comes to doing the stupid high school and college things you remember forever. The cars don’t make the memories, the memories make the car and of all the cool cars I’ve driven, seen, etc., my fondest recollections are of the high school and college beaters I or my friends had and what having a cheap car allowed us the money and time to do and the DGAF nature gave me the freedom to try. There’s plenty of time in life to waste money on a car that matters to you and you’ll appreciate them more at that point.
As a kid whose first car was an Audi 90 Quattro 20V my advice is don’t get your kid a car that handles great, that car wasn’t fun because it handled so well that you didn’t get any excitement from it unless you were going much faster than everyone else.
Also I’d take them to one of those teen driving courses held at racetracks, he’ll learn how their car handles in a safe environment.
My recommendation is a compact manual transmission having 4WD pickup, probably a first gen Nissan Hardbody. RWD allows him to hang the back out at slow speeds helping him learn car control for snow and such and the 4WD is there to help him get out when he eventually takes the truck somewhere he shouldn’t have.
If you want to get your kid a new automobile I’d get him a Ford Maverick Hybrid XL pickup for ~$22K (make sure to find the right dealer) and he can use it as a shop “truck” to get parts for the car he’ll buy later to fix up. Everyone wants a used car till it’s stuck in your driveway undriveable and you have to bum a ride off someone to pick up parts for it.
It’s reliable very fuel efficient transport using a copy of Toyota’s planetary e-CVT and he’ll probably take to college with him as it is arguably the most practical automobile sold in the US in the past 10 years or so.
*edit: I later got my 1994 Toyota Pickup V6 5MT 4WD and the ability to power slide at under 25 MPH appeased my speed demon and I did not speed in my pickup. It took some hairy speed and tactics to get the Audi 90 to slide.
Used MK6 GTI.
4 doors, stick, turbocharged 4 cylinder (lowers insurance premiums), can carry 4 comfortably or haul a lot of junk, ok gas mileage (21city/31hwy) but great daily performance, and a fantastic interior. Easily under the $12k budget.
These are reliable other than the timing chain tensioner issue which can be resolved by buying a model built after 09/2012 or price in a preventative repair ($600 DIY, $2k shop in CA). Water pumps and intake manifolds can be resolved for less than $1k and are DIY items if you are reasonably inclined. Knock these issues out and the car can go 10 years and a 100k miles without major repairs.
Do GTI’s have Toyota or Honda like reliability? No, but they are not the typical Euro money pits of yesteryear and have a great community and aftermarket support for known issues. These cars have great driving dynamics for an enthusiast’s daily driver and are quick enough for the daily slog but not too fast that it will get you in trouble.
Signed,
A Mk6 GTI 6MT Daily Driver for 11 years.
Whatever the modern version of a VW Scirocco is. Back in the 90s they were ideal, stylish good handling, enough power to be entertaining and easy to work on. Now, who knows? I guess it depends on how important ABS and airbags are
Focus SVT or Focus ST
Big enough for the kid to bring their band instrument to school or take Jr. to daycare.
Four doors for more who-lesome activities with friends and family.
Fast, but not that fast.
FWD, so decent in the snow.
Upgrade potential.
I just posted Focus ST also. Perfection
These are all boring cars for boring 30-somethings. First car needs character. First car needs to break down occasionally. First car can be weird because no one expects you to seem all grown up. In my experience life is better when your car is crappier. Worried about safety? Avoid the freeway. Car breaks down? Ride your bike for a few days or hitch a ride with one of your 500(?) friends driving to the exact same place at the exact same time. Tell me that won’t result in a more open-minded, well-rounded adult someday…
Dead on.
Miata is always the answer.
Great to learn car control, momentum driving, and the ins and outs of a front-engine rear-wheel drive car. Also oodles of upgrades available, lots of info and resources, and fairly easy to accomplish.
That said, the Volvo isn’t a bad choice. It flies under the radar while still being nice to look at, while being supremely safe for a small car of that vintage. The Volvo 2.5L (outside of the early S60/V70R models) is one of the better 5+ cylinder inline engines of the last two-ish decades – especially for a European – in terms of reliability and dependability, it can handle the light mods that a new driver might do, and working on them isn’t too bad (just buy a comprehensive Torx set). Also Volvo has some of the best seats in the world.
Given the recent video evidence a KIA soul manual may be a good choice.
I’m biased, but I’d say miata or BRZ because they are lots of fun, have tons of opportunities to tinker with them, don’t have enough horsepower for you to get into too much trouble, and are new enough / reliable enough that they’ll represent solid transportation.
Definitely get a solid roll bar on the miata before letting the kid loose on it though.
Reliability is a bigger deal than I think most are imagining; we wouldn’t want him being late to class or losing his job because his BMW or Chevy broke down again.
If side airbags and traction control are non negotiable, then you are asking the worst crowd possible for advice.
Do Hondas really cost more to insure? Is it a theft thing? Idk, I only pay for liability and they don’t care what I drive.
I’m not the person to ask. When it came time for my first car my parents found a rusty 27-year-old four-door sedan with a two-speed automatic and no seat belts, paid $400 for it, then sent me off to college in it. Still, I turned out okay, right?
Yeah my dad found a 12 year old 4 door Plymouth Valiant the he required me to pay $1800 whose entire exhaust system fell off on the ride home that i repaired with a polyester tie, didnt last long but got me home, sent me off to college in that. First trip home breaks down on the Florida turnpike. I open the hood the engine block is glowing orange. Turns out a crappy repair job plugging a fuel leak where the gas line entered the carb. THANKS DAD.
I think a pretty big unanswered question here is where they live.
As responsible as this kid may be, RWD + manual transmission + reasonable power + snow is probably not ideal for a first time driver. I say this as someone who grew up narrowly avoiding a lot of trouble in low powered RWD vehicles in Minnesota.
So while a lot of these options would probably be fun, if he lives anywhere that gets winter weather, I’d recommend something FWD. Luckily that still leaves a lot of options.
Counterpoint to all of those – a proper enthusiast’s first car should be a bit of a piece of shit. Crappy cars build character, and make you appreciate the nice ones more when you get them.
And it probably ought to have handling limits below those of its driver. Enthusiasm does not equal skill, and probing the limits of, say, a stickshift Kia Rio is a far slower and safer affair than any of these. Get good with a car like that, and you’ll be better with something faster.
These all feel like good second car choices, maybe to take to college, but not first cars. My advice: spend less, buy less, and save the rest for later.
I’m with you on everything except the idea of eventually getting nice cars.
I grew up in Europe, so drivers license age was 18. I had been racing go-karts since I was 10 until about 15, had my first motorbike (75cc of fury) when I was 14.
My dad made me get a CDL instead of a regular DL, because he owned a trucking company and the CDL required 6 months of actual driving school (included first aid and mechanics class).
People who found out I was getting my license were asking my dad what car would he give me, a 6cylinder BMW, or maybe a high-strung Alfa? My dad would just smile and say it’s a surprise.
When I finally got my license, my dad presented me with something called a Dacia Lastun: 500cc air-cooled twin engine, fiberglass body, 4-speed manual column-shifter, weighed close to 1000lbs. It was well-used (the odo was broken, so I couldn’t tell the mileage), and the fuel pump sometimes would need to pe “primed” by pouring some gas directly into the carb to start the engine.
It was my car for about 2 years and it taught me everything about city driving (Iknew if I was careless and ended in a crash, I would most certainly die, comparing it to a tin-can is an insult to actual tin cans) and wrenching (by getting me stranded in remote places and/or at night). It was probably the best car for me at the time and years later I realised it was one of my dad’s best decisions.
No your dad should not have been allowed go supervise a pet rock.
Sorry cant insure Nissans and KIAS due to the easy theft feature.
I own an E90 BMW with the N52, it really is a fantastic engine as long as you take care of it. Most issues are caused by people not driving far enough to properly warm it up or by relying on BWM’s insane 12k service interval. My 330i is very similar to a 128i, so I’m assuming that you’ll see far less costs than normally associated as long as you do the wrenching yourself (which is surprisingly easy!).
We got my son a Volvo C30 for his first car, it has some of the most comfortable seats I’ve ever been in, has enough power to be interesting without being crazy, and decent handling. The biggest concern for me is the metal quality, the Focus and Mazda 3 that share this frame rust like crazy and I had to treat a few spots on my son’s C30. Also, changing the timing belt is a huge PITA, make sure the previous owner did that.
I’d vote for the MX or BRZ. My opinion is that a kid’s first car is kinda disposable and should teach them about driving. Slow car fast, right? And, I also think it should not be smooth or quiet: let them be aware they’re driving a mass which can kill them or others. The Cobalt is way too fun in a straight line for most new drivers. The BMW & Volvo too poised & isolating: too easy to exceed limits without much warning.
The MX will instill some fear and awareness of other drivers even in a 16yo. Fear promotes survival
Just reminded me of a story my sales manager told me when i started selling cars. A 4 cylinder Jeep is ideal. It is fun and sporty and a bit wreckless but a 4 cyl. motor keeps the speed down. Slow car fast with a high center of gravity right?
Most of these have too much power for a new driver (speaking as a dad, and as someone who used to be a 16 year-old boy).
A Mazda 3 manual hatch would be a fantastic first car for an enthusiast.
My oldest just turned 16 – we found him a ’15 Mazda 6 manual with just over 100k on it. We’re splitting the cost. It’s fun to drive! Handles great.
The Mazda is the right answer. I bought my oldest son a 8 year old Mazda 3 with a manual and it’s about to go to my youngest son. That’s right all three of my sons drive a manual and they all took their driving test in one. I know I’m a hero, you don’t have to comment. These things are fun to drive, quick but not really fast, and dead reliable. We have only replaced the drive belt and coolant hoses, and that as a precaution. Any other answer is wrong. Well, except of course a Miata.
Belt? I thought Mazda 3s were all chains.
I definitely felt more pressure (and desire) to lose my virginity than get a new car!
Why not both?
An old 3 on the tree Dart with a bench seat got me scrod and life was good. (-:
Gotta date the right girl, though: not all are that dexterous.
-to shift for you while you have your arm around her, of course!
wait, what? She got you fish?? Not going there. Better stop now
Losing your virginity big deal. I lost mine before I was 12. Now losing it with a partner that was fun.
And odd post to tell this to you, but today I was behind CT plate “MH”. I thought of you. It sparked a good conversation between my wife and I. I find myself a bit of a plate hobbiest.