Good morning! Welcome to a special Black Friday edition of Shitbox Showdown. Because it’s a huge shopping day for a lot of people, and I thought you might be looking for a gift idea for someone (or a toy for yourself), today we’re taking a break from the “real” cars and diving into the world of radio-controlled models.
In keeping with the theme, we’re not looking at some cheap new Chinese-made thing, or even the fancy ready-to-run hobby-grade models sold at chain hobby shops. Instead, we’re going to look at two classic RC cars from my own personal collection. Mine are not for sale, but neither of these are hard to find on eBay, and both of them have been re-issued in recent years. But like a lot of my collection, my examples are kinda shitboxes.
To introduce these two, I need to tell you a little history. In the early days of the RC hobby, the first off-road buggies were based closely on scaled-down real-world vehicles, mostly VW Beetles. They were, in Tamiya’s terminology, “scale models suitable for radio control.” Predictably, however, once people started racing them, scale realism took a back seat to performance, and purpose-built designs took over. The first of these was the RC10, from Associated Electrics, introduced in 1984. It mopped the floor with the earlier scale designs, winning everything in sight, including the inaugural International Federation of Model Auto Racing (IFMAR) 1/10 scale Off-Road World Championships in 1985.
Kyosho Corporation of Japan, whose Scorpion and Tomahawk buggies had been the most successful racers of the scale designs, took notice, and in 1986 introduced its own purpose-built design: the Ultima. Advertisements for the Ultima proclaimed that it would be “The Next World Champion,” which sounded like hubris – until Kyosho made good on it, sweeping the podium in the 2WD class at the 1987 IFMAR Worlds. The battle was on, and it played itself out over and over again at local tracks for years, though the Ultima never again took the top spot at the Worlds.
So let’s take a look at two beat-up examples of these mighty warriors, and you can decide which box you would have taken off the hobby shop shelf.
Associated RC10
Chassis/drivetrain layout: 2-piece stamped aluminum tub, rear-mounted motor, RWD
Designer: Roger Curtis
Country of origin: USA
Currently available? Used (for now)
The secret to the RC10’s success is that everything–everything–is adjustable. Every bit of suspension geometry can be changed: camber, caster, toe (on both front and rear), weight distribution, everything. Gearing, spring rate, shock damping rate, shock angle, and ride height are also adjustable. There are even two possible wheelbases. And that’s before you even get to the tuning possibilities available by changing the tires. You can dial it in to any track, any surface, any situation. And its simple, chunky, modular layout means that with a few aftermarket parts, you can adapt it to any sort of racing. Whole cottage industries sprang up around this model in the ’80s, offering conversion kits to turn it into a sprint car, a stock car, or even a monster truck.
This design was so successful that Associated kept it in production for twelve years, making running changes and improvements along the way. This RC10 is a hodgepodge of leftover parts; ten or twelve years ago, I bought two large lots of broken and used RC10s, about ten cars in total, along with boxes of parts. I restored and sold nearly all of them, and built myself three examples using the leftovers, because I don’t really care about originality; I just want to drive them.
Unfortunately, that meant some compromises. There was a trend for a while of drilling “speed holes” in RC10 tubs, presumably for a tiny bit of weight loss. It also looks like hell, weakens the tub, and lets all sorts of dirt and crud in. But with new-old-stock RC10 tubs selling for three figures, and the re-issue stock from a few years ago long since dried up, you take what you can get. Eagle-eyed readers who know RC10s will also note that this is an early A-stamp tub, with a six-gear transmission, but with a later “Team” wide-track front suspension. It also has Kyosho shocks, ironically, because I had them and they work great.
This car is set up for backyard bashing, with a stock-class racing motor and a Novak speed control, both from the mid-90s. It runs better than it looks. The “clownfish” paint job, by the way, is something I started doing back in the ’90s when I was racing at a local track in Duluth. I needed something that would stand out, and be easy for a no-talent hack like me to paint with a brush. Now, of course, everyone who sees it immediately wants to call it the “Nemo car.”
Kyosho Ultima
Chassis/drivetrain layout: Stamped aluminum ladder with upper deck, rear-mounted motor, RWD
Designer: Akira Kogawa
Country of origin: Japan
Currently available? New and used
Kyosho had already introduced its Optima four-wheel-drive buggy a year earlier, using a similar suspension layout to the RC10. The Ultima built on this design, with a simpler one-piece chassis, fixed-length upper suspension links (easily replaced by adjustable links), and an evolution of the simple, durable gearbox design Kyosho had been using for several years. Like the RC10, the Ultima could be, and was, altered into all sorts of other vehicles. Kyosho kept this basic design in production well into the 2000s, underpinning a whole series of scale sports car models, monster trucks, stadium-style racing trucks, and even a sprint car, the brilliantly named Kyosho Sideways.
The original Ultima’s skinny aluminum frame, stiffened by a plastic upper tray bolted to it, lasted only for the first generation, though. Later editions used a flat plate chassis, either carbon fiber or fiberglass-reinforced nylon (called “Kelron” by Kyosho’s marketing department). I always liked the skeletal appearance of the original, especially with the plastic rollcage (almost never used by racers), so I sought out this first-generation Ultima specifically. It’s nearly all original, except for an aftermarket front bumper, new wheel bearings and some replacement hardware, a re-issue body, and a modern electronic speed control in place of the original three-step mechanical resistor.
If you want an original Ultima, you’re in luck: Kyosho has updated and re-issued several of its ’80s models, including the Ultima. For a little more money, you can even get a replica of Kyosho’s 1987 Worlds-winning Ultima, as driven by Joel Johnson. It eschews the cool-looking rail chassis and tube rollcage, but it’s closer to how most Ultimas were raced back in the day. I’ve been sorely tempted by it, but it’s a lot of money for a toy car.
Besides, I have this original one, and while it may not be the track missile that a new re-release would be, it’s a lot of fun to slide around on dried-out thirty-year-old tires. This one runs a basic Mabuchi RS540S motor, the baseline standard motor for RC vehicles for more than forty years now. It’s cheap, indestructible, and plenty of power to have a little fun.
Nostalgia is huge in the RC world, and has been for many years now. Tamiya has led the charge, re-issuing nearly all its most popular models from the ’80s, starting with the ever-popular Hornet in 2004. Kyosho took another ten years to jump on the bandwagon, bringing back its Scorpion buggy in 2014. Associated made a limited run of re-issue RC10 kits in the same year, and has just announced a “Classic Clear” edition, primarily meant for display, and there is some speculation that another run of normal RC10s will follow. And of course, since both of these kits were made in the hundreds of thousands back in the ’80s, used examples abound, ranging from new-in-box to even more ragged examples than mine. If you want to join in on the fun, there are plenty of ways to do it.
(Image credits: me, this post contains Amazon affiliate links and we may get a commission if you click on them and buy stuff).
I started with a Frog before upgrading to an RC10. Still have it and my kids are having it reconditioned right now for my birthday.
Nemo for the win!
This feature is particularly timely for me because I found myself in a place recently where several people were playing with what seemed to be high-end high powered radio controlled cars. They looked really fun, and I know absolutely nothing about them, so it’s interesting to learn more about the hobby.
Thanks for the memories. I had an RC10 when I was a kid in the late ’80’s and raced it on weekends at a local indoor track. I even won a few races, but my fondest memory from that period was the looks of surprise and admiration from all of the dads of the other kid racers when they realized I was my own pit crew. Everyone else seemed to follow the “dad fix, kid race” model. Those other kids were missing out on half of the fun!
The “ultima” that won in 1987 was heavily modified and mid motored.
This is a fantastic time to get back into RC cars if like me you last built a car in the late 80s.
Just about every kit from that era is available in some form or another. Kyoshos legendary series is amazing and Tamiya continues to release their kits from that era.
Next year is the 40th anniversary of the RC10 and Associated is almost certainly going to bring the RC10 back. In fact, they already announced an absolutely gorgeous “clear” edition that’s going to be available in a few weeks. Meant for display, but a sure sign that a runner is coming.
On top of this all is the fact that modern electrics, batteries and motors are WAY superior than what we had in the 80s. LiPo batteries means that your car can run for hours vs minutes, and brushless motors are mind meltingly fast.
If you want to get into current high end buggy racing, most of it is indoor and carpet based with Associated and Team Losi being the leaders in that field.
But I would just go ahead and pick up a Kyosho Ultima or DirtMaster, a Tamiya BBX or just wait for the RC10 release, grab a transmitter and esc, servo for steering, and get ready to have a great time!
The BBX looks great. I have a feeling I’ll end up with one eventually.
It’s gorgeous- they hit the right balance between Tamiya retro and modern. All of the RC makers are jumping back into RWD buggies in a big way.
It’s tempting to get back into it. The tech is probably much more user friendly. I had one of the first Novak brushless systems and was running NiMH 3300 batteries. LiPo’s were catching fire frequently at the time and breaking crystals on a bad landing was still common.
OMG it’s been decades since I last heard someone mentioning “crystal.” Fellow old timer I see.
More old RC action, please
I’ll see what I can do.
I +100 this! Old, new, it’s a pretty neat time for the hobby, both super high tech and nostalgic 80s retro. I’m sure a lot of the readership grew up with these and might enjoy getting back into it!
I went for the Kyosho. Never much cared for buggies, which is why my RC garage is full of monster trucks and crawlers.
Those cheap Chinese trucks are decent for the price. The 1/18 brushed motor ones are perfect for indoor ripping. I have a version with metal axles but plastic gears. That’s fine since the axles break more than the gears. It can get sent over a binder for a jump in the middle of the living room without endangering anyone or anything. Or breaking itself. Nice rainy day indoor fun.
I had a Marui Hunter. Rather a budget choice, it had the three speed resister based speed controller and a somewhat cheesy swing axle semi-independent rear suspension. It did have a hydraulic spring/damper on the back as well as a differential, so it was reasonably capable when set up properly. Mostly it taught me about things like under/over steer and the effects of toe and camber on handling. Only ever drove with friends on BMX tracks and the like, although there was a local racing scene that I observed with mild interest. Read magazines devoted to the hobby so knew all about the merits of the RC10. Also had some four wheel drive cars but found the two wheel drive buggies to be the most fun. Since then I have collected dozens of cars, mostly of the low end/toy variety, since they make an easy impulse buy to play with for a bit before stripping them for parts for my own projects. These days it’s all about flying models. I have many different planes of various types including VTOL and ornithopters, as well as a dozen or more quads and helicopters, some with decent cameras. Am planning to build a cinewhoop for FPV flying next. I’ve tried FPV through goggles with some of my camera drones but the video links used in these types of models are not really appropriate, having too much lag. Quads used for FPV flying have low resolution often analog cameras and dedicated video links to reduce lag, and a fixed mount. Quite different from the high resolution and mobile, often two or three axis stabilized cameras that stream over Wi-Fi as used for photography.
I went with the RC10. I can relate to piecing something together from leftovers & hoping for the best. Kindofa underdog vibe.
Tough choice I’d take both of these. I like that old Novak Rooster in there. I’ve got a CR-01 with a Novak Rooster Crawler in it. I had the knock off RC10 back in the day, the Traxxas Bullet. I’m always looking at the reissues of all the oldies and I have only two. The Grasshopper and the Lunchbox.
Aliexpress had a very close knockoff of the Tamiya Bruiser with the shiftable transmission a few years ago, since I passed on the original in the late ’80s
But did buy another Lunchbox when that reissue came out.
Do hope there is a 40 year edition for the RC-10, so I can have a mint example next to the one I got ’85.
My personal take is I can drive the real thing so a big not interested in either. But I have never flown an airplane so if you toss an RC Airplane to fly in there that is my choice. It’s an entertaining article to read however so not complaining about it being different.
Love the window into this hobby. Nemo takes the win for me!
I don’t understand much but I like the kyosho’s looks better. A cheapo Losi would outperform both anyway so you might as well go for the looks
I had a Fox, which was awesome. I always wanted an R/C 10 but the Fox was great for me and what we could afford at the time. Later in life a few years ago, I bought a used Fox and RC10 on eBay and restored/used them both. It’s so fun to have them and play with them. My dog goes NUTS it’s so cute.
I had a Fox, too. Almost nobody else around had one. They either had Frogs or Grasshoppers or they were adults with tricked out RC10s that cleaned up at the local track. I had several full car bodies (911 Carrera RS, Cobra, and Testarossa) and ran a Reedy Pink(?) Dot . . . I think that’s the one. Anyway, it did 40 mph, but didn’t turn for shit as I spent all my money on the motor and bodies, so it still had the stock skinnies on the front. I also wasn’t a great driver of the thing, but I could occasionally make turns by climbing and riding the chainlink fence if I got it right.
That’s awesome. I actually had a Frog before I got the Fox. The Fox was a huge upgrade and yes I was the only one who had one. I liked that. I remember putting a hot motor in the Frog, and every time I would go full throttle the gears in the weirdly complicated gearbox would all grind up and I had to take it apart and re-position everything haha. So I always had to feather the throttle but it sure was fast.
I think that was a common issue with Frogs (or maybe it was the Grasshopper, I can’t remember, but I do recall a few people having gearbox issues). I was surprised at how durable the Fox gearbox was. I don’t remember what gearing I used, but I think I only replaced one gear even with it serving as the brake for up to 40 mph and they were all nylon except for the motor gear. I wish there were still places around to run them as it’s just not fun enough alone as I think my nephew or older niece would like them. Putting it together yourself really adds to the enjoyment, plus it’s a lot easier to figure out what you just broke and know you can fix it. (I somehow didn’t break mine often and never seriously even though I beat the hell out of it, though the only other kid with a Fox broke his chassis and either they couldn’t be bought separately or they were too expensive, so he ended up giving it to me for parts. I assume it was a thermoplastic, so if this was today, I could plastic weld it for him, but I didn’t even know that was possible back then, never mind have the welder.)
I wonder if the Fox was in some odd price range where it was a little too expensive for the kids with less money for a non-store-bought car and the people with more money just went for the RC10s. I wish I had a little more money to have been able to put into handling as it always impressed people at the races with the speed and durability. Of course, I could have used a lot of driving improvement, too, but it was tough to get in enough practice with the assortment of old NiCad battery packs I had that only lasted maybe 10 minutes when new and were a PITA to discharge and charge to maximize service life. Those things were expensive, so I ran packs until they were barely useable. I imagine modern LiFePo packs would be a massive improvement.
I broke the chassis on my Fox as well. Maybe I gave you mine for parts haha.. I don’t remember what happened to my original Fox. At the time, there was no chassis available to replace mine so it was junked. eBay wasn’t a thing back then. I tried welding it back together with my soldering iron but I was never able to get it to hold. Sad.
In a sad twist of fate, I actually broke the chassis on my CURRENT Fox last summer. But, I was able to replace the chassis which is now sitting ready for installation while I finish 400 other things…
Out of curiosity, I looked up the Fox chassis material and it’s supposedly ABS. Not only is that weldable, but ABS can be melted in acetone and turned into a kind of paste that will solidify when the acetone evaporates. I wouldn’t use the latter method for a load bearing repair, but for abrasions, chips, or even some custom work, it can be a useful thing to know. I just use an old jelly jar to keep some sludge made form ABS scraps in. When needed, I just add some acetone, wait, and stir.
I wish 13 year old me knew that. I was melting metal pieces into the chassis (which cracked in half mind you..) to try and reinforce it, it was sad. I think there was a metal chassis around at some point for a Fox .. hmm maybe I need to check out eBay….
Man this has me all fired up to get these cars going again this winter. I need to get them torn down and rebuilt.
I got into hobby grade RC cars when I was in grad school, and it was a nitro powered RC10-GT that lit that candle. Over the next few years I owned a few dozen different RC vehicles, electric and nitro. I was funding the hobby by buying used collections, fixing and parting them out on eBay. Nothing was easier or more fun to work on than that first RC10-GT.
I had to sell everything while I was student teaching. Student teachers do not get paid, and are in fact still paying tuition to their university. I was down to my last $200 to my name, and had to hawk it all to buy gas to get to school. Luckily I was living at home, or I would have been properly screwed.
I’ve tried to get back into the hobby a couple times since, but it never sticks. Anyways, I picked the RC10, because that nitro RC10-GT was so easy and so much fun to work on.
I had an RC10-GT I cobbled together on a low budget back in 2004-2006? I loved that thing. Should still be sitting in the garage somewhere.
That would have been the same time frame I had mine. Fall of ’05 is when I sold everything off.
I know nothing about RC cars, but I know plenty about 80’s music, so The Vapors reference gets my vote.
This is an extra-fun S/S, and this is saying a lot.
I’m a boomer with deep roots in slot-car racing, but I’m pretty ignorant when it comes to the RC segment.
Now I’m a little less ignorant, and it feels pretty good. Thank you for a solid post.
You’re kidding me right? I owned lots of Kyosho, but this aint even close – RC10 all day every day.
I know nothing about these, but I like your clownfish paint job, so RC10 for me!
The RC10 was my dream RC car back in the 80s, but I couldn’t afford one. I do like the Ultima plenty, but nostalgia forces me to give the nod to the RC10.
RC10 no longer made, chose the ultima
I always wanted to get into more serious RC cars when I was young, but never did make the leap. (Grew up in a small town with K-mart, but nothing resembling a hobby shop.)
I still have my RC cars from my childhood, though neither are currently operational. My first was a 1988 Tyco Porsche 959, and second was 1992 Tyco Eliminator. I remember being blown away by how fast the Eliminator was compared to the 959, but the 959 was really fun to slide around on smooth concrete.
Maybe one of these years I’ll figure out how to bring those back to life…
That was a tough decision, but I think younger me would’ve gone for the Ultima.
I had a Tyco Eliminator from the late 90s until probably 2010 when I have it to my nephew. It was a lot of fun!
The Ultimate reminds me more of the Tamiya Grasshopper I had as a young lad. So it gets my vote.
RC10s were *the* badass RC cars to have back when I was in the RC car club at my middle school, circa 1995 or so. The team associated RC10T stadium truck specifically. I didn’t have that kind of money so I had my much beloved Tamiya Bearhawk buggy instead, but I lusted after the gold anodized aluminum tub RC10s. Back in the early 2010s when brushless motors took over the hobby I got back into it by scoring a bunch of vintage brushed electric RC stuff off eBay for dirt cheap, and much like you was able to piece together a mutt early RC10 buggy from spare parts. Dream car acquired, albeit at 1/10th scale.