From broken bolts to questionable decisions made by previous owners to parts that aren’t exactly the price you thought they’d be, wrenching can be pain. However, every so often, the luck of the draw is on our side. For every handful of repairs that fight you, one ends up being far cheaper than you’d expect. It’s time to celebrate the cheap ones.
As you’d probably expect, cheap fixes come relatively far and few between for me, considering my crippling addiction to heavily depreciated performance cars, frequently of European origin. Alright, maybe calling my 325i a performance car is a bit of a stretch in a straight line, but the inputs are bang-on perfect. Anyway, despite doing the exact opposite of making my life easier, little wrenching victories still happen, and here are two that spring to mind.
When I bought my 325i, I bought it cheap for several reasons. Firstly, COVID just hit, and that had an initial dip on the car market. Secondly, it was an old BMW with a ridiculous number of previous owners. Thirdly, the airbag light was on, and that would be a problem for the eventual safety inspection needed to register a used car in Ontario.
Weirdly, the passenger seat also didn’t move when I picked the car up. A quick peek underneath the seat revealed a crude, homemade smoking apparatus jammed up under there had been wedged against the seat plug just enough to kill connection and trip an airbag light. Removing the, um, paraphernalia, re-seating the plug, and clearing the hard code worked! Total cost? Free.99, and that’s hard to beat.
Likewise, when I bought my Boxster, the translucent cover for one of the alarm system sensors was missing, and I figured I’d just grit my teeth, order a replacement from the main dealer, and cry once to have it sorted. Turns out, the trim piece I needed was less than $15 Canadian. A stark contrast to Infiniti wanting to charge me $100 for a license plate light bracket for my old G35. Plus, the trim bit simply snapped into place in two seconds, and while that’s to be expected, it’s nice when the parts are cheap and the fix is easy.
So, let’s hear it for the repairs that were less expensive than you expected. Whether surprisingly inexpensive parts, a much simpler fix than what originally seemed plausible, or a combination of the two, we’d love to talk about the times the wrenching gods smiled upon you and got you back on the road without emptying your wallet.
(Photo credits: Thomas Hundal)
Last year the system that regulates the cylinder deactivation feature in my Honda Accord failed. Only cost $600 to repair. I was seriously afraid the problem had trashed the engine.
Last year the system that regulates the cylinder deactivation feature in my Honda Accord failed. Only cost $600 to repair. I was seriously afraid the problem had trashed the engine.
About two days after I bought my Jaguar the left half of the instrument display died. A replacement was not going to be cheap, and I feared a pretty significant labor bill on top of that.
As it turns out all I needed to do to remove the instrument cluster was to telescope the steering wheel all the way out, remove the knee panel, and take out four 8mm bolts. I then violated the stringent warnings on the trusty Lucas electronics sticker and opened up the cluster. There I found a very large transformer and immediately suspected that some of the ancient solder joints had cracked. I reflowed all the power and ground traces, put it back together and it has functioned flawlessly ever since. Cost: essentially free, but whatever the electricity and a little bit of solder was worth.
It was definitely one of my prouder accomplishments in wrenching. Even my Jag mechanic was impressed.
Taking the wheel off is nerve-wracking.
I did it twice on my Prius v.
The first time to replace the turn signal stalk with one with the fog light switch went flawlessly.
The second time was to replace the wiper stalk with a matching one (was an aesthetic thing because I’m stupidly picky).
But, I forgot to disconnect two little tabs while taking the wheel off that time…and it broke the clock spring. That was roughly $700 for the part and another ~$200 for labor at the dealership.
Hoping that will remain “the most expensive mistake I’ve ever made, automotive-related or not” for a while.
About two days after I bought my Jaguar the left half of the instrument display died. A replacement was not going to be cheap, and I feared a pretty significant labor bill on top of that.
As it turns out all I needed to do to remove the instrument cluster was to telescope the steering wheel all the way out, remove the knee panel, and take out four 8mm bolts. I then violated the stringent warnings on the trusty Lucas electronics sticker and opened up the cluster. There I found a very large transformer and immediately suspected that some of the ancient solder joints had cracked. I reflowed all the power and ground traces, put it back together and it has functioned flawlessly ever since. Cost: essentially free, but whatever the electricity and a little bit of solder was worth.
It was definitely one of my prouder accomplishments in wrenching. Even my Jag mechanic was impressed.
Taking the wheel off is nerve-wracking.
I did it twice on my Prius v.
The first time to replace the turn signal stalk with one with the fog light switch went flawlessly.
The second time was to replace the wiper stalk with a matching one (was an aesthetic thing because I’m stupidly picky).
But, I forgot to disconnect two little tabs while taking the wheel off that time…and it broke the clock spring. That was roughly $700 for the part and another ~$200 for labor at the dealership.
Hoping that will remain “the most expensive mistake I’ve ever made, automotive-related or not” for a while.
The analog odometer on my W124 stopped working. I assumed a new instrument cluster for old German car money, if I could even find one. Turns out to be a common issue when a plastic gear splits and loosens on its shaft, replacement gears available for $12. But wait…
The cracked gear has a hub that’s a perfect press-fit into an M5 washer. Not only does this keep the gear tightly on the spindle again, it actually IMPROVES the design because it can’t split open again.
Total cost: $0.03.
Had a similar experience on my Porsche 993 – plastic gear teeth deform/break – and while I had to shell out about $25 for a new (much better) gear and then spend some nerve-wracking hours doing basically watch repair, it was so gratifying to be able to fix it myself/that cheaply.
The analog odometer on my W124 stopped working. I assumed a new instrument cluster for old German car money, if I could even find one. Turns out to be a common issue when a plastic gear splits and loosens on its shaft, replacement gears available for $12. But wait…
The cracked gear has a hub that’s a perfect press-fit into an M5 washer. Not only does this keep the gear tightly on the spindle again, it actually IMPROVES the design because it can’t split open again.
Total cost: $0.03.
Had a similar experience on my Porsche 993 – plastic gear teeth deform/break – and while I had to shell out about $25 for a new (much better) gear and then spend some nerve-wracking hours doing basically watch repair, it was so gratifying to be able to fix it myself/that cheaply.
My Saab 9-5 started gushing coolant after any more than five minutes of driving. Based on some forum research, I thought I was due for a head gasket job or a full cooling system refresh. A $5 replacement coolant tank cap fixed all my problems.
My friend had an overheating Outback due to the water pump dumping everything out at its seal to the block. $800 job at any garage. She ended up fixing the problem for about $75 in parts (including a new timing belt) by *checks notes* having me do the work in exchange for two bags of pierogis. Win-win.
My Saab 9-5 started gushing coolant after any more than five minutes of driving. Based on some forum research, I thought I was due for a head gasket job or a full cooling system refresh. A $5 replacement coolant tank cap fixed all my problems.
My friend had an overheating Outback due to the water pump dumping everything out at its seal to the block. $800 job at any garage. She ended up fixing the problem for about $75 in parts (including a new timing belt) by *checks notes* having me do the work in exchange for two bags of pierogis. Win-win.
My Boxster had a vibration at high speed shortly after a “lawn mowing excursion” on a track day. Thought I had possibly thrown a wheel weight. But then I remembered there was some grass sticking out of the edge of the wheel where it meets the tire. I had previously cleaned all that up, but wondered if there was something on the inside or stuck to the suspension, so I took it to a “no touch” car wash with jets underneath. I normally wash by hand because the car wash jest are too powerful and get past the seals, but this was worth it, as something much have gotten blown out by the underside jets. No more vibration. So I guess cost $10.
Had the same issue after an unexpected lawnmowing expedition in my old Envoy. Unfortunately I was not that smart and had it towed to a shop, where a mechanic got to inform me that the problem was just some mud caked on the wheels. That was not a fun bill to pay.
I had prior experience of a sort. During the winter I had taken a car in for some routine service, and had to navigate some snow-covered side streets to get to the freeway. On the freeway the car drove like I had lost wheel weights on both fronts, so I got off the freeway and turned around to go back to the dealer. Part way to the dealer it cleared up – I figured it was snow stuck in the wheels that eventually melted.
My Boxster had a vibration at high speed shortly after a “lawn mowing excursion” on a track day. Thought I had possibly thrown a wheel weight. But then I remembered there was some grass sticking out of the edge of the wheel where it meets the tire. I had previously cleaned all that up, but wondered if there was something on the inside or stuck to the suspension, so I took it to a “no touch” car wash with jets underneath. I normally wash by hand because the car wash jest are too powerful and get past the seals, but this was worth it, as something much have gotten blown out by the underside jets. No more vibration. So I guess cost $10.
Had the same issue after an unexpected lawnmowing expedition in my old Envoy. Unfortunately I was not that smart and had it towed to a shop, where a mechanic got to inform me that the problem was just some mud caked on the wheels. That was not a fun bill to pay.
I had prior experience of a sort. During the winter I had taken a car in for some routine service, and had to navigate some snow-covered side streets to get to the freeway. On the freeway the car drove like I had lost wheel weights on both fronts, so I got off the freeway and turned around to go back to the dealer. Part way to the dealer it cleared up – I figured it was snow stuck in the wheels that eventually melted.
I decided to attach my trickle charger’s mounted lead to my motorcycle’s battery (the part that allows you to simply connect via a single socket vs putting the alligator clips on the terminals) as I park her fairly close to a wall outlet now. No more taking off the seat I figured.
One day I disconnect, then take her out. Almost immediately, I notice hesitation, the tach starts weirdly jumping around, and she has a very uneven idle. I’m no stranger to problems like this, so I start trying to mentally figure out what it might be as well as wonder if my tow guy will be able to come get her/me.
Then it dawns on me “what’s changed since the last time I rode?”. So I lurch into a parking lot, pop the seat off, and remove the lead. She fires right up and everything is fine again.
I still don’t fully understand what happened, but I’m relieved it was that cheap n easy to fix.
I decided to attach my trickle charger’s mounted lead to my motorcycle’s battery (the part that allows you to simply connect via a single socket vs putting the alligator clips on the terminals) as I park her fairly close to a wall outlet now. No more taking off the seat I figured.
One day I disconnect, then take her out. Almost immediately, I notice hesitation, the tach starts weirdly jumping around, and she has a very uneven idle. I’m no stranger to problems like this, so I start trying to mentally figure out what it might be as well as wonder if my tow guy will be able to come get her/me.
Then it dawns on me “what’s changed since the last time I rode?”. So I lurch into a parking lot, pop the seat off, and remove the lead. She fires right up and everything is fine again.
I still don’t fully understand what happened, but I’m relieved it was that cheap n easy to fix.
Exhaust on the wife’s 2007 Corolla last weekend. The muffler mounting flange rusted off the main intermediate pipe. Cut it clean with a wafer wheel, did the same on the muffler pipe. A $10 stainless band type clamp, 40 minutes and good to go.
Exhaust on the wife’s 2007 Corolla last weekend. The muffler mounting flange rusted off the main intermediate pipe. Cut it clean with a wafer wheel, did the same on the muffler pipe. A $10 stainless band type clamp, 40 minutes and good to go.
Tire plug. It was raining buckets that night on I-95 South in NC when I ran over what turned out to be a twisted S hook from a load tie-down – it was essentially turned into a caltrop. Thankfully, I was a 1/4 mile from an exit that happened to have an old-school former Exxon gas station with a garage. By the time I pulled into the parking lot my tire was at about 5 PSI. The attendant was an old-timer with hands that looked like leather. He asked me to pull around to the front under the awning, and he brought out the floor jack and airgun. In a matter of minutes he had the wheel off and had pulled out the offending metal. He grabbed a plug kit from behind the counter, near the Lance cracker display, and proceeded to fix the tire and air it back up. Total time was likely less than 10 minutes. I told him I would go buy a new tire in Durham the next day, but he told me it wasn’t necessary.
He charged me $8, I gave him a $20.
Take your upvote for your use of “caltrop” – what a perfect, evocative term to describe it!
I keep a tire plug kit at the house, it’s saved me and friends a few tires over the years.
Upvote for old timer with leather hands. This man has seen things.
Plugs have a bad rap but I’ve had a lot of success using them. I had one that lasted 5 or 6 years without any leaks. Should I have taken it in for a proper patch at some point? Maybe, I always figured if it leaked I would but it never did. We also frequently use them at my work on trailer tires without issue.
I keep a plug kit, pliers and a compressor in all my cars. If it’s on the front, you don’t even have to remove the tire, just find a place you can turn in circles.
Tire plug. It was raining buckets that night on I-95 South in NC when I ran over what turned out to be a twisted S hook from a load tie-down – it was essentially turned into a caltrop. Thankfully, I was a 1/4 mile from an exit that happened to have an old-school former Exxon gas station with a garage. By the time I pulled into the parking lot my tire was at about 5 PSI. The attendant was an old-timer with hands that looked like leather. He asked me to pull around to the front under the awning, and he brought out the floor jack and airgun. In a matter of minutes he had the wheel off and had pulled out the offending metal. He grabbed a plug kit from behind the counter, near the Lance cracker display, and proceeded to fix the tire and air it back up. Total time was likely less than 10 minutes. I told him I would go buy a new tire in Durham the next day, but he told me it wasn’t necessary.
He charged me $8, I gave him a $20.
Take your upvote for your use of “caltrop” – what a perfect, evocative term to describe it!
I keep a tire plug kit at the house, it’s saved me and friends a few tires over the years.
Upvote for old timer with leather hands. This man has seen things.
Plugs have a bad rap but I’ve had a lot of success using them. I had one that lasted 5 or 6 years without any leaks. Should I have taken it in for a proper patch at some point? Maybe, I always figured if it leaked I would but it never did. We also frequently use them at my work on trailer tires without issue.
I keep a plug kit, pliers and a compressor in all my cars. If it’s on the front, you don’t even have to remove the tire, just find a place you can turn in circles.
In 2019 I replaced a power mirror for $20 for a new one. I’m still confused how it was so cheap.
I did one on my old Econoline for $35 in 2016 or so. I also felt like I’d gotten away with murder. And that was from freakin’ Amazon but I doubt anyone could tell. Literally the only difference was a slightly different pitched electronic whine when adjusting that mirror versus the factory one opposite.
In 2019 I replaced a power mirror for $20 for a new one. I’m still confused how it was so cheap.
I did one on my old Econoline for $35 in 2016 or so. I also felt like I’d gotten away with murder. And that was from freakin’ Amazon but I doubt anyone could tell. Literally the only difference was a slightly different pitched electronic whine when adjusting that mirror versus the factory one opposite.
Receiver hitch for 2020 Grand Cherokee. Mopar part is $409 plus $75 shipping. This hitch goes through the bumper and requires a new panel after the cutout.
OR, Curt Class 3 hitch – $175 on Amazon with free 2 day shipping (Prime members only). Took 10 minutes to mount and lies snug up under bumper, no cutting. Easiest car project of my life.
Receiver hitch for 2020 Grand Cherokee. Mopar part is $409 plus $75 shipping. This hitch goes through the bumper and requires a new panel after the cutout.
OR, Curt Class 3 hitch – $175 on Amazon with free 2 day shipping (Prime members only). Took 10 minutes to mount and lies snug up under bumper, no cutting. Easiest car project of my life.
While in college and with no place to work on a car my 85 accord with 240K miles on it developed a power steering leak where it lost all 8ish ounces in 2 weeks. I took it to a local mechanic to see if there’s a quick fix like replacing a hose or tightening a clamp. The mechanic calls me back and says the leak is coming from the rack itself, they cost $1100 just in parts, and at $5/qt and 1 qt / month it’ll take me about a decade to recoup that cost so I can come by and pick it up whenever I want no charge.
Upvote for the pure honesty.
On that note – the rack in my e39 was leaking horrifically, to the point where it wasn’t really ignorable anymore. A rack was about $230, which seemed pretty cheap to me. However, everyone says that the job to replace a rack in an e39 is horrible. There are forum posts that claim it’s an engine-out job, and I’ve seen people literally scrap the car because they got stalled in the middle of a rack replacement. I basically didn’t drive the car for two years because I was dreading it so much.
I jack the car up, unbolt the engine mounts, lifted the engine a few inches, unbolted the rack, swapped the new one in, tightened up the hoses, and lowered the engine. It took maybe 2 hours, and that included me taking an hour to clean the underside of the car. I have no idea what sorcery I figured out, as I’m not a great wrench, but… I was more than pleasantly surprised.
While in college and with no place to work on a car my 85 accord with 240K miles on it developed a power steering leak where it lost all 8ish ounces in 2 weeks. I took it to a local mechanic to see if there’s a quick fix like replacing a hose or tightening a clamp. The mechanic calls me back and says the leak is coming from the rack itself, they cost $1100 just in parts, and at $5/qt and 1 qt / month it’ll take me about a decade to recoup that cost so I can come by and pick it up whenever I want no charge.
Upvote for the pure honesty.
On that note – the rack in my e39 was leaking horrifically, to the point where it wasn’t really ignorable anymore. A rack was about $230, which seemed pretty cheap to me. However, everyone says that the job to replace a rack in an e39 is horrible. There are forum posts that claim it’s an engine-out job, and I’ve seen people literally scrap the car because they got stalled in the middle of a rack replacement. I basically didn’t drive the car for two years because I was dreading it so much.
I jack the car up, unbolt the engine mounts, lifted the engine a few inches, unbolted the rack, swapped the new one in, tightened up the hoses, and lowered the engine. It took maybe 2 hours, and that included me taking an hour to clean the underside of the car. I have no idea what sorcery I figured out, as I’m not a great wrench, but… I was more than pleasantly surprised.
Not Specific, but every time I cross shop name brand parts between Rock Auto and *anywhere else* it always shocks me how cheap you can get good parts, or how REALLY cheap you can get questionable parts.
Seriously! My 1972 Super Beetle needs new brake drums, and to my surprise they had a set of Brembos (I didn’t even know they made drums) for cheaper than most of the VW specialty places sold their no-name parts.
My favorite thing is once I have a few “needs” in cart from a single shipping location for any given car, I’ll go to the closeout specials and just add anything I could even remotely need if it won’t ship separately and is significantly discounted. Doing things like that has gotten me a nice stash of blade fuses and common size interior/tail/marker size bulbs for I something like $3 total that are so nice to have on hand to avoid a trip to Advance Auto for something like a standard 10A fuse that’ll be $2.75 for 3.
Ha – I have a stash of wiper blades and assorted fuses/relays b/c exactly that strategy!
I get trade pricing at the local NAPA through my work and it is basically the same as Rock Auto pricing. The amount of markup for retail customers at parts stores is really high.
Not Specific, but every time I cross shop name brand parts between Rock Auto and *anywhere else* it always shocks me how cheap you can get good parts, or how REALLY cheap you can get questionable parts.
Seriously! My 1972 Super Beetle needs new brake drums, and to my surprise they had a set of Brembos (I didn’t even know they made drums) for cheaper than most of the VW specialty places sold their no-name parts.
My favorite thing is once I have a few “needs” in cart from a single shipping location for any given car, I’ll go to the closeout specials and just add anything I could even remotely need if it won’t ship separately and is significantly discounted. Doing things like that has gotten me a nice stash of blade fuses and common size interior/tail/marker size bulbs for I something like $3 total that are so nice to have on hand to avoid a trip to Advance Auto for something like a standard 10A fuse that’ll be $2.75 for 3.
Ha – I have a stash of wiper blades and assorted fuses/relays b/c exactly that strategy!
I get trade pricing at the local NAPA through my work and it is basically the same as Rock Auto pricing. The amount of markup for retail customers at parts stores is really high.
January, -40 and the V50 didn’t want to start, boosted it and drove 20km home with no heat- discovered there was no coolant- parking spot at work was covered in blue coolant. Next day car would start for a second and quit- waited until it got warmer and at -15 I got it started, it ran horrible for a while and then ran fine- I was sure I had cooked the headgasket but it was the cheapo Amazon coolant tank cap hat allowed all the coolant to come out- I refilled and have put 18000km on it since without a hiccup