I know a sinking feeling that’s almost as bad as breaking up with a girlfriend or screwing up big time. It’s getting saddled with a car repair bill that’s far more expensive than you expected. This feeling is even worse when you crack open your wallet and realize you don’t have enough funds to cover it. Tell us about the repairs that were way more expensive than you expected.
I’m lucky to have a fleet of cars that, for the most part, work well enough for me. Sure, they might have some rust, a loose door handle, or a check engine light, but they all run and drive to my satisfaction. Over the years, I’ve been finding out that my standards for a car running “fine” are quite low. I’ve always felt that air-conditioners were sacrificial until I met my wife.
Every once in a while I run into an issue that both debilitates the vehicle and is far too expensive to fix. Oh, where do I begin? Is it the Volkswagen Passat TDI wagon with a bad transmission that wasn’t worth replacing? Or was it the other Volkswagen Passat TDI wagon that made exactly no oil pressure and needed a new engine? Those cars were worthless and replacing a transmission or an engine would have netted me with terrible cars that worked only slightly better.
The worst example of repairs getting out of hand was my old Volkswagen Phaeton.
Not the one I just bought, but the one before that. It was a rescue purchased by its previous owner with a bad electronic locking system, a broken sunroof, a bad ABS module, and more. The previous owner replaced all of those parts and brought the car back to life, but wasn’’t able to finish the job due to being in the military. I took the car for a brief test drive and then handed the money to the seller’s parents.
I wish I had driven it a little longer because it was all of 30 minutes before the car started overheating. A three-hour drive suddenly turned into an all-day ordeal and I wish overheating was its only issue. In my brief ownership, I discovered a huge air suspension leak, a bad transmission valve body, a jammed sunroof, jammed HVAC blend doors, jammed HVAC vent covers, a bad trunk lid motor, a bad driver window regulator, a snapped hood release cable, and parts that loved to fall off of the car. Then, as if to insult me, even the dome light fell from the ceiling and hit me in the face.
I learned quickly that just fixing the overheating was going to cost a fortune. My mechanic believed the water pump and thermostat were both shot (they were). Ah, but you can’t just replace the thermostat and water pump and go on with your day. My mechanic found valves in the cooling system to be stuck, so those had to go, too. Oh, and because of the design of the VAG 4.2-liter V8, replacing the thermostat also called for a timing belt job.
A thermostat could have been gotten for under $50 and I remember seeing water pumps for under $250. Yet, I was quoted at least $1,500 for this job just because of all of the labor. And that didn’t include literally everything else the car needed, such as two front air shocks. Once my mechanic started tallying everything up, I would have spent close to $10,000 on my $2,500 Phaeton. I later learned that my Phaeton was literally three dead Phaetons and a dead Porsche Cayenne cobbled together as one single vehicle.
I sold it to him for the price I paid. Last I heard, he put in around $4,000 in repairs and the car still wasn’t working right. Remember, that’s $4,000 in parts alone since he gets free labor.
Lately, the big bill is rust repair on my wife’s BMW E39 wagon. This was a car I recently featured as a big regret in the article about all of the BMWs in the Autopian fleet. I have good news! Some further diagnoses suggested that the engine’s insane oil burn was fouling the plugs. So, I replaced the plugs. I also found that my wife replaced old-ish Bosch coil packs with some super duper cheap packs from China. One of them seems to be intermittent. So, I’m returning the car back to what it was like when we bought it from the Bishop. I’ve gotten the car to stop misfiring, but the oil burn is still really bad. I’ve found that as long as the car is driven hard, the plugs don’t get fouled. So, for now, I’m telling Sheryl to drive it like it’s a BMW.
But I still can’t fix that rust. We started off expecting to pay $1,500 for the job as that’s about what the shop we had chosen charged for new rockers. Unfortunately, we then learned that shop got out of the rust repair business and the quote has since ballooned to $4,000, $4,500, $5,000, and most recently, $8,000.
Thankfully, I have resolved the car’s misfiring problems, but I do not trust myself to resolve major rust issues. For now, my wife will just send it as it is.
So, how about you? What car repairs have been putting you in the poor house?
Re-engineering a clutch assembly to replace the NLA OEM system on a ’97 Citroen Xantia Activa V6 in 2022 – and not being able to do it myself because the car was on the other side of the country.
It was probably the second time I had to replace (3) injectors in my F-Type. It was only surprising because I had just replaced the other (3) a few weeks prior.
I’m kidding, of course. No repair on this car is surprising.
Well, either the 2004 Pathfinder that has an impossible-to-find CEL for something vacuum related, or the former Daihatsu Rocky I had that lunched its head and was then un-possible to fix…both are or were far harder and spendier than they had a right to be to resolve. Because they are still not resolved.
One of my first cars was a ‘93 Lexus ES300 – the intake hose got a crack in it after the air sensor, so it started losing power intermittently. Turned out that intake hose was two hundred and fifty goddamn dollars for 8” of rubber tubing, which I can only assume was hand-molded by blind monks in a monastery on Mt. Fuji. The labor was about 30 seconds of work with a Philips head.
My current car is a BMW, so everything is absurdly expensive, but it at least drives like it warrants the repair bills, as opposed to the slightly fancy Toyota Camry.
Alternator belt broke on my 1994 Toyota Pickup (V6 4WD 5MT), bought the belt, only to realize that you have to remove all the other belts to get access to the alternator belt pully, and that said belts were the factory belts, so the timing belt likely hasn’t been replaced when it should have been, so I took the Truck to a local shop and had them replace every belt.
It wasn’t ridiculously expensive, but a lot more expensive than the cost of one alternator belt.
Water pump on my EcoDiesel. Not only is the part expensive (because diesel, I guess), it’s placed such that you have to remove some one-time-use fuel lines to get at it. At least when they did it they replaced the thermostat and all the adjacent coolant lines too to make sure I don’t have to do it again for a good long while.
Also the rusty exhaust hanger that cost me somewhere in the four figures to replace because it dropped the hot exhaust on an expensive part of the DEF system.
Had a ’98 Jeep Wrangler… Key word (had). That thing was like a crazy ex-girlfriend. Cost a lot of money, had a never ending list of things wrong with it, but when it worked right oh man did it work right… Open air, doors off, 75 degree day and that inline 6 purring was enough to make me forget every dollar I sunk into it.
Almost makes me want to go back to her and giver her another chance.
All of them in the last 2 years.
In 2002 I spent over a grand to replace the Nivomat, self-adjusting shocks on the hand-me-down-from-the-in-laws 1992 Volvo 960. I thought my mechanic was taking me for a ride when he quoted me the price but a call to several other garages confirmed that was the going rate. The trauma was real. I haven’t (seriously) considered a Volvo since then.
I have those on my CTS-V. Haven’t had to replace them ever though. Rockauto has them for $270 each. Yikes.
“Tell Us About The Car Repair That Was Way More Expensive Than You Expected”
Actually, I’m NOT gonna give you that. I’m gonna give you the opposite… My recent exhaust repair on my Honda Fit was way LESS than I expected.
I posted about it on Oppo:
https://opposite-lock.com/topic/97552/my-car-got-really-noisy-on-my-way-home-from-work-today-updated
Basically my Fit became unbearably sound as the pipe coming out of my catalytic converter completely detached from the rest of the exhaust. AAAND I saw there was an issue with the other end where the catalytic converter was attached.
I was expecting it to potentially be a CAD$500-$700 repair.
In reality it was CAD$379.
If you’re in the west end of the Toronto Area and need exhaust work done or want a custom exhaust, I strongly recommend JPG Exhaust:
https://www.jpgexhaust.com/
Anyone know why I can’t see this post even though I’m a member? Finally signed up last week
If Matt doesn’t see this, send him an email. I think he can fix things like this.
2004 Mazdaspeed Miata. This one was by choice for the most part. I broke a connecting rod and initially thought no big deal, I will just drop another stock one in or do a quick and dirty rebuild using one of my other engines. So that plan didn’t last long and I ended up doing a full built bottom end, refreshed head with new seals, stiffer springs, and new valves, a bigger turbo, a fully ethanol compatible PTFE fuel system, and chassis stiffening amongst a lot of supporting parts. So far I am ~$6k USD into what could have been <$2k.
Most I’ve ever paid was a brake job for my old Econoline.
I think it was front rotors, pads, plus upper and lower ball joints, for $1200. Just hurt extra because that thing more or less ate through its brakes on a regular basis. I’d say “I hope my next conversion van has 4-wheel disc brakes” to spread the braking load a bit, but I think it’s gonna be a while before I see any running used Transit conversions for cheap enough. (When did the Chevy Express get 4-wheel disc brakes?)
Separately, this wasn’t a repair I needed to get done but was something I wanted to get done but ended up skipping on–the van’s driver and front passenger seats’ seat belts retracted very slowly when released, to the point that they’d block the doors from closing if you didn’t manually pull the “back” sides down. Got a quote for $250 each to replace the pretensioners. Which I begrudgingly understand since (I believe) that contains the explosive…decided to continue dealing with the issue rather than replace them.
Transfer case shift motor on my 2nd gen Tundra. On most American trucks the shift motor can be removed and replaced from the outside. On the tundra the internal shift rails are integral to the shift motor, and the entire case needs to be removed, split and disassembled to replace the shift motor. I spent $1800 inclusive of the cash discount to get that fixed.
It would be sub-$500 on an F150 or silverado 1500
I never want to hear anything about old Ferrari running costs from any of you rubes ever again.