If you think about it, we live in an era that generally has a lot of great access to exciting, small-batch-created fluids. There’s tons of small local breweries, there’s local farms selling milk and chicken juice, coffee shops that will brew up obscure beans, you name it. So why shouldn’t your car enjoy the same liquidy fruits of the craft-liquids movement? They should, and as a way of proving this, I got noted oil-maker Valvoline to help me whip up a batch of special, bespoke one-of-a-kind motor oil for our own David Tracy and his 1958 Nash Metropolitan.
You know what I like about the name “Valvoline?” It reminds me of “Vaseline,” but with “valves” in it, conjuring up images of Vaseline-slathered valves, which really isn’t such a bad image for a company that makes motor lubricants. Anyway, Valvoline invited me out to their top-secret New Product Development Lab located on a small private island off the coast of Kentucky, where I worked with two of Valvoline’s finest scientists, Dr. Michael Warholic and Sarah Razor, who helped me develop a batch of oil specifically designed for David’s Nash Metropolitan.
Luckily for you, we were granted special permission by Emperor Viscous T. Valvoline himself to video the process:
If you’re wondering why Valvoline would invite filthy me out to their nice, clean lab (they also paid for a relatively oil-free hotel room for the night, and we get the six quarts of oil we made for free) it’s because they’re very proud of a very specific claim: that their oils provide “24X stronger protection against engine-killing contaminants than the industry-leading full synthetic motor oil.”
I’m all for anything that stops engine-killing in general, and here those contaminants are water, fuel and ethanol, none of which are any good at lubricating. Valvoline scientists even showed me these vials to prove their claim:
What you’re looking at here is a little counter-intuitive, because that milky-looking oil is what you want. You see, both samples have been contaminated with water, and left to sit overnight. The Valvoline oil looks like a creamery milkshake because it has effectively trapped and diluted the contaminants throughout the oil, which is still a highly effective lubricant even in this state. The other oil has separated completely from the water (look at the bottom) so while the oil is pure, so is the non-lubricating, non-compressible water, and that will get into places that desperately need oil and cause all sorts of damage. So that makes sense.
I called the six quarts of oil we brewed up Metro Magic, because it’s specifically tailored to the demands of that ’58 Metropolitan. The old Metro’s engine is a little 1.5-liter Austin B-series engine, and pretty much everything inside that engine is well-worn. David was specifically concerned about the pushrods and valve tappets, which is why he requested an oil with a lot of zinc.
I mean he wanted a hell of a lot of zinc in there. Where a normal, high-zinc motor oil may have 1200 ppm (parts per million) of zinc, David wanted 2000 ppm. The reason, which Dr. Warholic explained to me, is that the zinc is great at coating parts and forming what he called, with a solemn, respectful tone, a sacrificial layer. This layer of sacrificial zinc takes the wear and abuse instead of the metal it’s covering, so it’s ideal for mitigating wear in old engines.
This oil also needed to be thick and viscous, because tolerances in old engines are much looser than modern ones, so the oil was made to be 20W-50 weight, about as thick as mainstream motor oil gets unless your plan is to pour it over pancakes.
Dr. Warholic also explained exactly how viscosity works in a way that I finally understood: the reason some oils are more viscous (thick, slow flowing) than others has to do with the chains of carbon molecules in the oil. If those chains are long, they tend to get in one another’s way more, and so the flow of the oil gets impeded, and slows down.
If the oil has shorter carbon chains, they physically don’t get in each other’s way as much, and the oil flows easier. In my head I thought about this like logs floating in a river. If there’s a lot of long logs, they don’t flow quickly at all:
So, those would be like the long carbon chains in viscous oil. In contrast, much smaller objects, like rubber ducks for example, would be like the short carbon chains, and can flow with much more ease:
That makes sense, right? Viscosity is just the difference between how logs and rubber duckies flow, and any decent scientist should agree.
It’s not just the zinc and high viscosity of this oil that makes Metro Magic great; it’s also the best quality oil you can get, and I mean that literally. You see, all oils start with a base oil, which is just the refined oil that comes out of the ground, but not all base oils are equal. In fact, there’s four groups of base oil (well, technically five, it seems) and the groups are categorized by how much refinement they get. This was explained to me on this sheet of paper by one of Valvoline’s helpful science-elves:
What those curves are showing is what percentage of the base oil has the qualities that you really want in your oil, and the oil that does is in the center of the curve. Group I takes the least refinement, and as such that curve is pretty flat, with about as much being to either side of the ideal zone, so you end up with a pretty low-grade, cheap oil.
More refinement gets you to Group II, which at least has a good amount in the ideal zone, but it’s still a pretty gradual ramp up and fall-off. Group III is refined even more, with high pressure and heat, to get most of the oil in the ideal zone, making a purer base oil.
And finally we have Group IV, which is refined into a synthetic oil known as a polyalphaolefins (PAOs) oil. As you can see on that ball-point graph, it’s pretty much all the good stuff. And that’s what we used as the base for Metro Magic.
Oh, and we also dyed it purple, so David will know he’s putting in the Good Stuff, and when it inevitably will slowly leak out of that Metro’s crankcase, he can stain his driveway with festive violet stains instead of boring, ordinary black oil stains.
This is some incredible oil the Valvoline team crafted up for us. If you had to buy it in stores – which, again, you can’t – it would be really expensive, and a cheap-ass like David would never buy it for his old Metropolitan.
But he doesn’t have to buy it, so the oil is being sent to him, and once he gets that thing going, it’ll be full of Metro Magic. The plan is to let him run it for a number of months or miles, and then send an oil sample to a test lab so we can see just how incredible the Metro Magic actually worked.
My prediction? A few quarts of this in the Metro’s engine will take horsepower from around 50 to, oh, 240 or so. And fuel economy will get up to about (messes with slide rule) 48 mpg city, 65 highway. These are just my guesses, based on a complex mathematical process called “making shit up.”
This whole process was fascinating. I’d hardly thought about motor oil, but now I realize what a rich and complicated and interesting subject lubricants are. I can’t wait for David to decant that sweet, creamery purple oil into that little car and see how it does, knowing that I pipetted the zinc into it with my own rubbery gloved hands.
All the reading I’ve done on oils suggest 2000ppm is too much zinc and will actually have deleterious effects on the cam and lifters…..I’m surprised the Valvoline techs said it was OK.
Could that be the case with modern engines only?
Of course i’m totally guessing.I know their requirements are different but know almost no details
FWIW: Zinc kills catalytic converters and most of its benefit is to flat tappet lifter and cam systems. “Racing” motor oil has lots of zinc and little detergent. STP makes a high zinc oil additive. Do not use Metro Magic motor oil in you 2021 BMW M3. Do not use “racing oil”. Do not use STP.
A great explanatory article! Wishing that Metropolitan more relatively trouble-free miles.
A good article as usual.
I used Valvoline Racing 20w-50 in my SBC drag car for about a decade in the ’90’s, it worked well it was good value despite having to pay full wholesale for it. )-;
But, but…… the Nash Metropolitan needs Shell X-100 20w-50, 2000 ppm zinc and comes in a cool can.
Your oil is the civet cat poop coffee beans of the motor oil world!
“Any decent scientist should agree.”
Sort of. Long hydrocarbons like those in oil bend, twist and stretch quite a bit.
These people would like a word.
https://www.royalpurple.com/
Dr. Warholic and his evil assistant Ms.” Razorrrrr.” On a secret island lair ( checks story again ) off the coast of Kentucky. What else is in that oil , Jason ?
I would think 80/90 gear lube would be what this needed
Thank goodness Jason and David still live in a world of telephones, car batteries, handguns, and many things made of zinc.
This was my favorite oil commercial by far. I’ll keep using Valvoline. I’m so proud of you for not saying, or at least for editing out, any of the miriad inappropriate lubrication related things that must have popped up in your permanently fevered brain.
David’s doesn’t deserve this homemade goodness.
Hey. I don’t believe the oil scientists names, Michael and Sarah, are real.
and I do trust you because it says so on your coveralls.
But can David cook with it? That’s the real test
I remember his cooking with car parts article.Did he use motor oil at all? I cant remember.
I think some mineral oils are edible.
Then there’s Royal purple 20w-50, high zinc/ phosphorus….and….it’s purple!
Nice…I’d always hoped it was actually purple!
A warholic is someone who just can’t get enough of armed conflicts, right?
But maybe he’s just addicted to all the very colorful varieties of Campbell’s soup!
This was great, really enjoyed it. And don’t worry, I do my part to support Valvoline, esp with my currently leaky crankcase gasket on my bike.
Zinc is pretty much the main ingredient in all the snake oil engine additives you see at the store/on tv/being once shamefully hawked by Carroll Shelby, right?
I used Valvoline for decades, but their new owners are, unfortunately, a non-starter. I’ll have to figure out what to buy now.
Had to look that up, I didn’t know they had new owners.
I once made an unfortunate decision to go to one of their quick oil change shops because I was in a hurry, so I have already instinctively been biased against their products for many years. With the new ownership that just converts that bias into a firm no-go.
Saudi Aramco bought Valvoline’s lubricant business. Valvoline corporation is now just the oil oil change stores and some other stuff. I think they may own a refinery.
“I’ll have to figure out what to buy now.”
I’ve been quite happy with Walmart’s Supertech. I’ve used it for a long time and had no engine issues. Its sourced from Warren/Exxon/Penzoil. The filters are good too.
https://vehiclefreak.com/who-makes-supertech-oil-for-walmart-and-is-it-any-good/
https://rxmechanic.com/supertech-oil-filters/
Thanks, I was unaware of the takeover, that is nasty on many levels.
Try out Ravenol, been using their 0w 16 for over 4 years now, increases mpg and power, changed every 3k miles / 5K KMs, daily usage in tropical climates and almost daily stop-go traffic
This one’s a freebie, but how much will his next oil change be if David calls them up to order another 6 quarts?
Gotta get him hooked on something, now that in sunny California he’ll be going through rust withdrawal.
“…any decent scientist should agree.”
Well, that leaves me out. I’m a geologist.
Me too.
Yeah, me too, but it always could be worse: I could be an engineer.
Ahh good old 20w-50w. I know a man that still insists on 20w-50w in his mid 2010s Civic. He knows what he knows and that thin 0w-20w crap they use nowadays is not good for your car and will cause it to wear out quicker. The only reason to use that oil is if you live in Alaska. Down here in the Heart of Dixie, you need a good thick oil.
Sigh….he does know what he knows.
Too bad Honda specs 0w20 because they want the cam to get pressure ASAFP.
Two months from now there will be a hot new Indie band in LA area…David Nash and Metro Magic.
Or maybe not.
Also, I’m glad you colored it purple otherwise who knows what David would do with some pure fine-ass crude like this in the big city especially if he traded it on black market for some holey grayl 1968 Jeep CJ-5 or some such nonsense.
Infomercials for exotic hair treatment, lip balm sealant, pancake syrup filler, tub and sink rust remover, etc.
Nice work Torch! That’s pretty much exactly how I explain viscosity to my students – it’s not an easy concept for a lot of people to grasp. Just a quick correction though: the viscosity modifiers don’t make the carbon chains longer. The carbon chains are whatever length they are in the base oil. That doesn’t change until later when the oil is subjected to heat and shear forces, etc. in the engine and the carbon chains start to break down. But even more interesting is that the viscosity modifiers are actually what make the oil less viscous than it would be at lower temperatures and more viscous than it would be at higher temperatures. Nearly every liquid gets less viscous as it heats up. This is because the more energy that is absorbed into the liquid makes the movement of the molecules faster and they don’t “stick together” or interfere with each other as much. So the viscosity modifiers actually interfere with the “stickiness” of the oil molecules at lower temperatures, making them flow better than they would normally when they’re cold, but the modifiers interfere more with the oil molecules at higher temperatures, making the oil more viscous than it would be otherwise. Of course, there are several different types of polymers involved in the mix of modifiers. Here’s a good explainer: https://www.oronite.com/products-technology/viscosity-modifiers.html#polymer-technology
TLDR: Oil viscosity modifiers are magic.
I wish we could have seen the oil in all its royal purpleness. Maybe David will post a few shots of it.
Huh. And here I’ve been going to all the time trouble and hassle of just going to O’Reilly’s Auto Parts and buying a jug of Valvoline VR1 20/50 high zinc…
Valvoline VR1 currently has a zinc content of 1400 PPM.
I use Penn Grade oil in my air-cooled VWs, because it has a zinc content of ~1750 PPM.
https://penngrade1.com/performance-proven-the-case-for-the-original-green-oil/
I can’t take that webpage seriously. It’s structured like an undergraduate’s idea of a scientific journal article, but it’s written like pure advertising. It’s possibly the clearest example of corporate pseudoscience I have ever seen. The sheer chutzpah is actually sort of impressive.
Agreed. They could/should have just published the test results and called it a day.
penngrade is the one true good vintage oil
-penngrade dealer
Interesting! Oil science is all new to me