It’s pretty well established by now that buying a first model-year car is not the best idea, especially if that car isn’t based on another well-established vehicle with a proven powertrain and mechanical/electrical architecture. “By the final year of production, all the bugs will have been worked out, so I should get a final model-year car, right?” Well, not so fast.
Let’s first establish this: The “never buy the first model-year” advice is good; I could probably give you a million examples of design flaws that were changed sometime in the middle of the production run. Here are a few just off the top of my head:
- Around 2005, General Motors fixed its 2.2-liter EcoTec four-cylinder engine’s timing chain lubrication problem after numerous early (first three model years) timing chain failures
- In 2013, Nissan replaced its quickly-degrading Leaf battery packs (first two model-years) to a new “Lizard” pack that lasts longer
- In 2013, Jeep fixed the issues its 2012 and 2013 Jeep Wranglers (first model years with new engine) were having with cylinder head valve guides
- In 2015, BMW changed its timing chain/guide design of its N20 2.0-liter engines after numerous engine failures (first three model years).
- In 2014, Subaru made engine changes after 2013 (first model-year) Scion FRS and Subaru BRZs valve spring failures
Here’s a quote from Consumer Reports about first model-year cars:
“…as our data has consistently shown, reliability-minded consumers would be best served by forgoing brand new vehicles in their first model year.”
It makes sense; as much research and development that automakers do before sending to customers, there are going to be some real-world conditions that the automaker will not have accounted for, and if this leads to significant failures and especially recalls, the automaker will likely fix the issue during the vehicle’s production run. Warranty repairs are expensive for automakers, after all.
But while those changes are happening something else will also be taking place: TCR
Technical Cost Reduction
TCR is technically an internal term used at DaimlerChrysler/Chrysler Group, LLC/FCA/Stellantis/whatever the hell people are calling the company I once worked for. It stands for “technical cost reduction,” and, well, I’ll allow FCA to define it in its “Supplier Help Resources” document:
FCA cost reduction program is a partnership with the supplier to reduce the cost of components and systems through innovative ideas that include material, function, form, process, and part management. If a supplier submits their idea into GPSIS, and it meets the FCA business case criteria without Decontenting, reducing Quality or Performance, FCA has 2 teams to support supplier idea development.
The short of it is that the goal is to reduce the cost of building the car not by reducing features, and not by reducing the car’s perceived quality — the point is to reduce cost in a way that’s imperceptible. At least, that’s the theory. In reality, sometimes the cost reductions are noticeable. Oftentimes they involve removing features that manufacturers’ data shows most folks don’t actually use, or they involve reducing the gauge of certain materials, or they involve change materials that companies don’t think customers will miss.
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Generally, an ideal TCR, when pointed out to a customer, would result in a reply: “Oh, I don’t really care about that. The car feels the same.” But to diehards, sometimes it’s hard to look at a TCR and not be a bit disappointed just knowing that you’re getting less for your money.
Take my 2021 BMW i3. I’ve been driving a 2014 for over a year, so stepping into my 2021, some cost-saves things become obvious to me. First, the glovebox lock is no longer made of metal; it now appears to be made entirely of plastic.
2014:
2021:
In addition, 2014 BMW i3s came with netting on the back of the front seats; this was a handy place to store documents. BMW removed that starting in 2015.
2014:
2021:
Then there’s the Giga World interior changes. From 2014 to 2017, it looked like this:
You can see a slight change in leather color and fabric; those aren’t the cost-saves obvious to me — it’s the armrests. Notice how they were leather before, and now they’re white leatherette:
These are obviously small changes, and the average customer isn’t going to care that much about a seat net, armrests, or a glovebox lock, so in that way, BMW’s TCR engineers did a good job.
Still, as I’m sure many diehard enthusiasts have experienced when going from an early build car to a later one — not having a feature that you had before, or giving up on quality even a tiny bit when you’ve gotten used to the early vehicle, is a tough pill to swallow.
With that said, I have noticed that earlier-built cars tend to have better fit and finish than later ones, though that’s more anecdotal (though it’s worth mentioning that tooling does wear out over time). With that said, despite TCR, if I had to choose between a first model-year vehicle and a final, I’d choose a final. Not only have some of the big design flaws been fixed so the automaker can avoid more costly warranty claims, but in order to remain competitive, oftentimes there are new features added in over the years, or some once-optional features becomes standard. My 2021 BMW i3S, for example, has fancy Adaptive Headlights that weren’t available on early cars, it has Apple Carplay that wasn’t available on early cars, it has a new iDrive system that early cars didn’t have, and it’s a Sport Model, which wasn’t an option before 2018.
So there’s definitely more to gain and more to avoid when you choose a final model-year vehicle over a first. TCRs, if done correctly, are things you should be able to deal with.
When i retired I knew I wanted a 2015 Fit. I got mine in late June 10 years ago. Mine is under 5000 VIN. It’s been brilliant. Given that it was a new generation in a new factory in a new country, I think the Japanese overlords were supervising its build. I love it still.
When i retired I knew I wanted a 2015 Fit. I got mine in late June 10 years ago. Mine is under 5000 VIN. It’s been brilliant. Given that it was a new generation in a new factory in a new country, I think the Japanese overlords were supervising its build. I love it still.
With EVs especially later seems like it’s often going to be best because of rapidly improving batteries.
With EVs especially later seems like it’s often going to be best because of rapidly improving batteries.
So my final-model-year Mercedes-Benz CLK350 doesn’t have the problems with the 3.5L V6 that earlier years had…
….but in their infinite wisdom, MBUSA also deleted the previously standard Bluetooth – making it an option that my car was not ordered with (and would have cost @$1200 to retrofit with parts from scrapped cars).
So I probably have the only MBZ from the 21st century without Bluetooth capability.
So my final-model-year Mercedes-Benz CLK350 doesn’t have the problems with the 3.5L V6 that earlier years had…
….but in their infinite wisdom, MBUSA also deleted the previously standard Bluetooth – making it an option that my car was not ordered with (and would have cost @$1200 to retrofit with parts from scrapped cars).
So I probably have the only MBZ from the 21st century without Bluetooth capability.
This is the last year for the Rav4. I think current one with an ICE would last a long time. Proper automatic too. Next one will probably be hybrid only, which is _probably_ OK, but also probably more expensive.
This is the last year for the Rav4. I think current one with an ICE would last a long time. Proper automatic too. Next one will probably be hybrid only, which is _probably_ OK, but also probably more expensive.
The most reliable cars I’ve owned were early half first years (and the least, though the 260Z was only sold one year in the US, so does that count? Now that I think of it, my 5/1970 240Z was also first year, but was pretty rotted when I got it, still ran great, though, I can’t speak to its past)—my 11/1989 Legacy (over 270k of serious abuse, garaged for resto-modding that took too long to happen, taken by rust and vermin) and ’12 Focus (over 200k of fabled-Corolla-level reliability, totaled). My GR86 is also first year, though it’s largely carryover and I figured I was good as the FA24D is pretty similar to two previously existing versions of the FA engine. However, that did fail (covered under warranty without a fight for “RTV” I’m still a little suspicious of that cause, but it definitely suffered an oil pressure loss event that ate the bottom end bearings). Car’s otherwise been great, but I definitely can’t put it on the reliable list after that, nor with only 60k miles. Never owned a final year, though later Legacys definitely had some little detail changes that weren’t important, but made them seem a hair cheaper if one went from the earlier to the later car. I also liked the pre-facelift style better, though the headlights were barely better than sealed beams.
The most reliable cars I’ve owned were early half first years (and the least, though the 260Z was only sold one year in the US, so does that count? Now that I think of it, my 5/1970 240Z was also first year, but was pretty rotted when I got it, still ran great, though, I can’t speak to its past)—my 11/1989 Legacy (over 270k of serious abuse, garaged for resto-modding that took too long to happen, taken by rust and vermin) and ’12 Focus (over 200k of fabled-Corolla-level reliability, totaled). My GR86 is also first year, though it’s largely carryover and I figured I was good as the FA24D is pretty similar to two previously existing versions of the FA engine. However, that did fail (covered under warranty without a fight for “RTV” I’m still a little suspicious of that cause, but it definitely suffered an oil pressure loss event that ate the bottom end bearings). Car’s otherwise been great, but I definitely can’t put it on the reliable list after that, nor with only 60k miles. Never owned a final year, though later Legacys definitely had some little detail changes that weren’t important, but made them seem a hair cheaper if one went from the earlier to the later car. I also liked the pre-facelift style better, though the headlights were barely better than sealed beams.
Regarding downgrades for later model years, with the Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique we called it “de-contenting.” The newer models had some mechanical/reliability fixes, but fewer features and comfort features.
Regarding downgrades for later model years, with the Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique we called it “de-contenting.” The newer models had some mechanical/reliability fixes, but fewer features and comfort features.
My 2006 GMC Sierra definitely has some things cost cut out of it. It has rear drum brakes, when the GMT-800s debuted with standard 4-wheel discs. The interior door panels lost the fabric insert of the earlier trucks. There are some other nits one could pick too.
But it doesn’t have piston slap when cold like the early trucks did. 18 years in, and it’s never left me stranded, or stuck me with a repair bill over $600. Plus, since it was May of the final model year, they were clearing out the old trucks to make room for the new ones, I for a killer deal. I paid under $22k out the door, including a GM extended warranty, for a brand new crew cab pickup truck.
My 2006 GMC Sierra definitely has some things cost cut out of it. It has rear drum brakes, when the GMT-800s debuted with standard 4-wheel discs. The interior door panels lost the fabric insert of the earlier trucks. There are some other nits one could pick too.
But it doesn’t have piston slap when cold like the early trucks did. 18 years in, and it’s never left me stranded, or stuck me with a repair bill over $600. Plus, since it was May of the final model year, they were clearing out the old trucks to make room for the new ones, I for a killer deal. I paid under $22k out the door, including a GM extended warranty, for a brand new crew cab pickup truck.
Interestingly, the first two years of the 2.7 EcoBoost were the ones to buy those. After that they went to a stupid belt-driven oil pump instead of a chain.
Unfortunately, in my experience those early F-150s were not particularly reliable outside of the engine, so it’s a bit of a catch-22.
Interestingly, the first two years of the 2.7 EcoBoost were the ones to buy those. After that they went to a stupid belt-driven oil pump instead of a chain.
Unfortunately, in my experience those early F-150s were not particularly reliable outside of the engine, so it’s a bit of a catch-22.
Using the Jeep Wrangler example, one drawback of buying the later year versions is the they didn’t update much, including the head unit – I own a 2016 JKU that has the same radio as a 2008? It’s practically archaic, and really sours my experience.
the radio and general dahs/interior was one of the reasons that i made the decision to hold off and buy a JL rather than opt for a JK. i have the same radio that’s available in the JK in our 2012 Chrysler van, and it’s barely better than just listening to the engine. being able to get a heated wheel in addition to the heated seats in the Cold Weather group was also a big bonus. my hands hate a cold steering wheel in January.
Using the Jeep Wrangler example, one drawback of buying the later year versions is the they didn’t update much, including the head unit – I own a 2016 JKU that has the same radio as a 2008? It’s practically archaic, and really sours my experience.
the radio and general dahs/interior was one of the reasons that i made the decision to hold off and buy a JL rather than opt for a JK. i have the same radio that’s available in the JK in our 2012 Chrysler van, and it’s barely better than just listening to the engine. being able to get a heated wheel in addition to the heated seats in the Cold Weather group was also a big bonus. my hands hate a cold steering wheel in January.
The first V8 offered in Corvettes in 1955-6 (265 ci) had no standard engine oil filter. There was an optional thermostat mounted oil filter kit but some have no oil filtration at all.
Circa 2004 a buddy of mine bought a project ’64 Pontiac Gran Prix that somehow still had the owner’s manual intact in the glove box. Reading it through it we were apalled to see instructions on how to make your own oil filter using a toilet paper roll. No wonder engines back then all needed a rebuild by 100K or less.
The first V8 offered in Corvettes in 1955-6 (265 ci) had no standard engine oil filter. There was an optional thermostat mounted oil filter kit but some have no oil filtration at all.
Circa 2004 a buddy of mine bought a project ’64 Pontiac Gran Prix that somehow still had the owner’s manual intact in the glove box. Reading it through it we were apalled to see instructions on how to make your own oil filter using a toilet paper roll. No wonder engines back then all needed a rebuild by 100K or less.
First model years also tend to have cool new features/widgets that the Reviewers love and get attention…then they quietly get deleted next model year, so left with just regular ole car.
That’s true!
First model years also tend to have cool new features/widgets that the Reviewers love and get attention…then they quietly get deleted next model year, so left with just regular ole car.
That’s true!
There are some vehicles where historical context makes a big difference, as well. Some started production pre-malaise and ended up completely limp in late years, while others started price-cut and finished with more features, such as the 996 that initially shared the Boxster nose, featured a 3.2L engine and lacked a glovebox, but gained independent styling, more interior features and a 3.6L engine as Porsche recovered financially and could afford to offer more options and improve their product.
There are some vehicles where historical context makes a big difference, as well. Some started production pre-malaise and ended up completely limp in late years, while others started price-cut and finished with more features, such as the 996 that initially shared the Boxster nose, featured a 3.2L engine and lacked a glovebox, but gained independent styling, more interior features and a 3.6L engine as Porsche recovered financially and could afford to offer more options and improve their product.
And this is why I want to hold off until 2025 or 2026 for a Maverick, or until 2027 or 2028 for a Ramcharger
Yeah… I REALLY want the Ramcharger to be good the first year. I have a $100 spot in line. Ugh.
Just not sure I can afford the estimated price range of $68-85k. I mean, the most I’ve ever spent on a car is $33k. The least…a six pack of beer and a can of skoal.